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Vyšla nejnovější kniha Reinholda Messnera Symboly
Průvodce Elbtal 1 a 2
Mistr skal

Competitions
MČR ve skialpech (14.12)
JINGLE JAM vol. 7 (16.12)
Vánoční závody Ruzyně (24.12)

Ranking
Cesty:
41.Zedek 10150
42.Černík 10131
43.Kopáček 10113
Bouldry:
41.Zímová 9203
42.Zítková 9203
43.Jeliga 9203
Hory:
1.Sejbal 8423
2.Černý 8001
3.Groš 7768

Results
EP ledy Utrecht, Nizozemsko (13.12)
Kvalifikace ve skialpinistickém sprintu USA (07.12)
EP v ledolezení Brno (06.12)

Diary
5840 lezců
1193300 cest
Nové přelezy:
Elektrické 7C+
Blue Sessi 8A
Trojan War 8A
Jedna Mozk 7C
Velkej Kou 8A+
Kouř 7C+
Kaolinový 8A
Kaolinový 7C
Kombi Lajn 8A
Elektrické Xa

Indoors
V 16 - Plzeň
Lezecká stěna Kbely - Praha 9 – Kbely
Lezecké centrum SmíchOFF - Praha 5

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Outdoor Centrum Rock Point Poříčí - Praha 1
Rock Point Plzeň Americká - Plzeň
Outdoor Centrum Rock Point Masarykova - Brno

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standalezec.cz
ŠÉFREDAKTOR:
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INZERCE:
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IT:
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Adam Ondra

Terranova, 8C+

smallAdam Ondra who is in the lead of both rankings (difficulty and boulder), sent before the weekend his longterm project in Moravian Karst.

Adam has not given a name yet but he believes that its hardest boulder he did and therefore it attacks the 8C+ level.

Now we've got an update:

Adam's new master piece has the name Terranova and is graded at 8C+ !.

Adam said: "This boulder is foremost about it's difficulty. I would like to emphasize that it is not the most beautiful, exposed line in the world. It does not go on top of the stone but it is only a traverse at the beginning of the wall. I always thought that it won't be possible.
I tried it for the first time last year and I understood  the moves. This year I have devoted to it the whole autumn. Boulder has about 12 hard moves and than 5 moves already easier finish.


01

Terranova, 8C+

photo by © Vojta Vrzba


It's traverse, low to the ground. The first three steps are going pretty hard (like 7C+), but the hardest is to breathe and relax properly and not to climb like a diver. Another four steps are desperately difficult, I think it could be about 8B. Must be able to place a bad heel, squeeze slippery grip and move feet three times while holding the slippery grip. Three another moves, which are only about 7B, lead to last two key moves which could be 8A+. Then 7B easier finish.
As for clasification:
Overall, I was trining this boulder eleven days and it is certainly my hardest boulders, I have ever done. I also think of it is quite specific and it fits to my style.
I garaded it as a 8C+.


About the name:

I did not want to give a complicated Czech name, which no one would remember, I also did not want English name, so I chose a compromise. So the name is Terranova.



02

Terranova, 8C+

photo by © Vojta Vrzba




Translated by

Jirka Sika   [edit] 09:40 14.11.2011Print 

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