Czech Climbing




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Vyšel průvodce Adršpach I.
Nová dětská kniha o světové top lezkyni Janje Garnbret
Pískaři jsou zpět!

MČR obtížnost (01.06)
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SP Innsbruck (26.06)

1.Ondra 13491
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3.Černý 6808

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Czech republic climbing areas

Beta from Czech

Many climbers are familiar with France and the other prominent climbing countries of Europe. However, although a little less famous, the Czech republic also offers excellent

late spring, summer and autumn climbing. You can climb on a variety of surfaces including limestone, sandstone and granite. Also, not so far away is the famous Frankenjura area (Germany). Climbing has a very long history in Czech. Climbers began ascending sandstone crags to summit unclimbed peaks in the north of the republic as early as the 19th century. Sport climbing, particularly on limestone outcrops, however, has only really started to develop since the 1980's. But despite this many new areas have been developed and a great number of routes have been established. To date, there are over 60 developed climbing areas and many good bouldering areas in the Czech Republic. Of the climbing areas about 15 are quite large, 20 are middle sized and the rest are smaller sites. All of these areas are situated in picturesque natural surroundings for example in forests and along lazy rivers and as a bonus there are also many enjoyable sightseeing places such as castles and historical towns near by. (The map below indicates the various locations of these sites and gives a rough indication of the number of routes there are available in each area).
Climbing Characteristic Routes are usually bolted, however, there is not the astonishing density as in France or Italy. There are also some sites where you have to use your equipment i.e. there are no bolts, but this is not so common. The maximum height of sport routes is double pitch. Note: Guides are usually available at sport shops. Occasionally some shops are “sold out” but don’t be put off - it is usually not difficult to get reasonable info right at the area. Other Useful Climbing Info: Northern Czech Sandstone - In the north of Czech Republic there are impressive sandstone outcrops (probably as impressive as some of best crags in the world!) to climb, but the rock is sometimes particularly crumby. Belaying is done with the help of large 2 inch diameter rings that are cemented in the rock as bolts. Rings are very common in Germany and Czech sandstone and they are excellent for rappelling and hanging belays. The protection you can use is webbing and slung or slotted knots, however, the use of metallic protection devices such as friends, T.C.U.s, S.L.C.D.s, nuts and stoppers is not allowed (a long-established rule in these sandstone areas). Climbing Grades - There are two common rating systems: UIAA German; ( 5,6,7-,7,7+,8-,8….. etc. ) and the sand German scale (VI, VIIa,VIIb,VIIc,VIIIA……etc.) Bolts and Run-outs - In some sand areas you can find routes with long run-outs between rings. In several local areas there are still old bolts. Indoor Gyms – Unfortunately, there are only a few gyms you can visit in case of bad weather condition. Guide Books - Guidebooks for all sandstone and the others areas are usually available in any sport shops that stock climbing equipment. However these guide books are generally in Czech but most have a brief English and/or German introduction. Sill, they are usually good quality books and cheap e.g. you can get a 300 page high quality colored book for less then 10 Euro! Climbing Areas: There are 3 or four main sandstone areas in Czech and all of them are definitely worth to visit. The limestone and granite areas are also worthwhile excursions! – Follow the link to find out more!!! “The Alps are astonishing but Czech climbing areas are touching.” Paraphrase of the film Vesnicko ma strediskova Folow the link: Description of some rock areas we judged as the nicest

General Info About the Country Although probably not as comprehensive as a lonely planet, here are a few useful bits of info for travelers in Czech: Language and People: People are usually very friendly, rustic and good-natured. They love foreigners. Unfortunately a high percentage (about 70 % of the population) can't speak English but it is becoming increasingly popular especially amongst the younger people. Czech people also tend to speak a bit of German.

Food: Many pubs and restaurants offer excellent cooking (though it can be a bit fattening for those of you who like to watch your weight) and very good beer. Traditional food includes savory or sweet dumplings, cabbage and pork meat. Don't worry if all else fails there is always Mc Donald's for those who are less appreciative of the Czech cuisine. Where to Stay: There are a lot of official camping grounds where you can stay and to keep your costs low and plenty private B&B’s. Except for some strictly protected areas of the national parks, fireless camping is also allowed near the climbing areas. (Don’t worry - if you cross some private land the owner probably won’t shoot you, Czech people usually don’t have weapons). Getting Around: Czech Railways provides a clean, efficient train service to almost every part of the country, though express buses are often faster less expensive and more convenient than the train. Car, motorbike and bicycle are ideal ways to see the republic but in Prague feet, trams and the metro are the best ways to get around. Costs of ‘this & that’: Two most important liquids: Petrol …. 1,00 Euro/l Beer …. 0.5 Euro /0.5 l Generally the prices are fairly low... in fact all living expenses are quite low including food, gas and accommodation but most importantly CLIMBING GEAR! Currencies: Czech crown ($1 US = 17 Kc and 1 Euro = 25 Kc ) dinner costs 60-100 Kc, beer 12-20 KC Visas: It really depends where do you come however, if you do require a visa it is generally not difficult to acquire. Visas must be applied for in advance, as they cannot be obtained at the border. Nationals of all Western European countries, Japan, New Zealand and the US can visit the Czech Republic for up to 90 days, and UK citizens for up to 180 days, without a visa. Nationals of Australia, Canada, South Africa and many other countries must obtain a visa, which is good for a stay of between 90 and 30 days depending on your nationality. Getting There & Away: The only international airport is in the capital, Prague and this is the hub for the state run national carrier CSA (Ceske Aerolinie). Buying tickets in the republic won't save you much money, so if you're only going to the one destination, take advantage of the lower cost of a return (round-trip) ticket bought at home. Alternatively, consider arriving by train as it's the easiest (if not the cheapest) way to get from Western Europe to the Czech Republic. There are some 18 rail crossings into the republic. Arrival by bus could be even cheaper alternative. By road, visitors can enter the republic at over 30 points, and the list is growing all the time. Note: If you travel Czech you probably will come from West you will use the highway and for that you need to buy a toll ticket as a sticker. This should be placed on your car window. Health and Other Risks: Concerning the health there is nothing especial different from what you will encounter in the other European countries. But if you are outdoors be aware of the ticks as the may carry Lyme disease. Petty theft - be aware about not leaving valuables in your car even in the countryside. Consider leaving the front box of the dashboard open and to put people off. You can even add a note that there is no money in the car. In Czech you can simply write a note ("v autě nejsou žádné peníze ").   [edit] 13:28 22.09.2003Print 


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Commentaries commentsNew comment 

 splyndreluv mlyn14:26:04 24.10.2003
hello dear climber,
i'm nico from holland and me and my brother are going to splyndreluv mlyn
this christmas.
do you know if there is a possebility of climbing there (even in the
winter??) i readed something about some rocks in that area, but can't find
any details. On one site it says there open all year round, but i can't get
any more info, like the securety in the rocks are they already secured or do
we have to use nuts and stuff?

can you help me out??


from holland
 Re: splyndreluv mlyn13:05:02 08.12.2003
There are some ice climbing area, but climbing there is only unoficial, because this areas are restricted.
But usualy we go there. terains are probably 25 - 100 m high ice falls. Klasification is from 2-3 to 6 scottish.
Good luck. radek
 Re: splyndreluv mlyn10:17:39 25.07.2005

 Adrspach11:16:52 28.07.2022
Hello, I plan to make a trip to Adrspach in september and I am desperately trying to get or buy a guidebook to prepare for the area. Can you point me to some online shops or other resources ? Thanks

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