The breathtaking Ablon valley is situated on the north of the Savoy Alp,

not far from Annency (France) and is one of the largest limestone crags in the area. Ablon’s superb quality walls lie hidden from view in an amazing partly woody setting but it is by no means a secret playground for the select few. It offers a reasonable selection of 6a/b routes however, most routes are generally in the 7a and above range.  So if steep vertical routes are your idea of fun, then this is the place to come to. 


View to the central Valley

Characteristic:
Technical routes with finger pockets and sharp edges offer excellent climbing while surrounded by this breathtaking landscape. Almost all routes are well protected and are south-facing. The area is divided into ten sub-areas with mainly vertical walls, but you can also find severely overhanging walls as well. The rock itself (limestone) is surprisingly rough, offering good friction but it can be a bit tough on your hands. (The second climbing day will probably bring completely wear the skin on your fingertips.) Protection is new and all bolts and lower-offs are generally well placed with small run outs. A 60m rope is recommended.


Holly is going to climb Gasothearpie, 5c

This crag has enormous potential as only around half of it has been developed. There are still a lot of possibilities for new routes away from the central sector (Col de la Bourse).  Bouldering experts too will find a couple of unclimbed lines on the boulders spread throughout the valley.

The main wall gets full morning sun however, in the late afternoon it is in the shade and due to the higher altitude (1400m.n.m) can get a bit chilly. There are also plenty of routes shaded by trees to escape the sun on hot summer days, particularly in the eastern part of the wall.   With a picturesque setting and many great routes to choose from, Ablon will keep anyone occupied for weeks...


Access:
From Annency follow the N203 in the direction of Roche sur Foron. About 15 km from Annency turn right and go up the road to a small village called Thorens des Glieres. Then from Thorens continue on to Usillion and from here continue climbing to the saddle of Plato des Glieres. At the saddle turn right and follow the small-unpaved road to the parking place in Col de Dran.


Approach:
From the parking place in the Col de Dran (altitude: 1410 m) follow the track to Ablon (approximately 50 min walking). You can’t miss it, it’s on the right side of the parking lot and looks like a 4WD track!


Access from  the Col de Dran  1419 m


Detailed map of the Ablon valley and GPS based depiction of sectors position

Sectors:
The main sectors (from top down the valley) are; Terre Mythe, Dilleme, Amertume, La Parade, Exothermique, Impact, Gribouille, and Escalade principale.  This last sector is divided into three more parts; Many tonic, Conflict d interets and Jour de pluie.


Steep extraordinary walls of the main sector (Deuxieme sector)

Routes:
There are probably more than 225 routes in the Ablon valley. 
Grades range from <5c to 8c and to give an idea, a rough distribution of these grades is as follows:
<5c:  16
6a/6c+:78
7a/7c: 42
7c+/8c: 2


Climate:
Ablon is at an altitude of roughly 1500 m above sea level and is extremely exposed to all weather conditions. It is also important to note that the crag is limestone, which has a tendency to seep after prolonged periods of rain. As already mentioned, the main wall gets morning sun and falls into shade around 3 pm in late summer.


Ablon in winter

Local facilities:
Bivi: Sleeping is still tolerated at the Col de Dran parking place. As well as this you can sleep in your car. Fires are strictly prohibited.

Another option is to go to the cottage near the outcrop at the end of the access track.  There are plenty of sleeping places but you may need bring you sleeping bag.


Italian girl is dancing in Bc bg, 7a route in Main sector

Note: The land in the valley is farmland so please be considerate and mindful of the livestock (mainly cattle).

Tips and hints:

The cheapest and the probably freshest drink at the Ablon cottage is milk… You can also get beer and some food here as well.

There is also another more very scenic approach across the east ridge of the Ablon valley.


Jonquelle climbs Gazotherapie, 5c



Sector Mini falaise des Glieres

Maps, guides, navigation:

Map is not essential all routes ate well marked.
The latest topo is available in Glieres and probably also in chalet in valley.
It describes three other (minor) of areas and is well done.
Author:  Robert Durieux, 2002
Price: 16 Euros 


GPS coordinates:
Parking place in Col de Dran:
Main wall:





Thanks Jonquelle.