Czech Climbing

 CZECH CLIMBING  SHOP  FORUMS  ADVERTISING  POLLS  LINKS  GUIDES  MAPS  PHOTOS  VIDEO 

 name

 psw 

 Registration   |   Look at the tips and advices on the HowTravelCheap.com!
Find a route

Search

Books
Vyšlo 2. vydání průvodce pro bouldering v Divoké Šárce v Praze
Křest Perel východu a video ze Stránské skály
Křest knihy Perly východu

Competitions
SP boulder Bern (SUI) (13.06)
SP boulder, obtížnost Innsbruck (AUT) (25.06)
SP rychlost Polsko (05.07)

Ranking
Cesty:
1.Šindel 12747
2.Votoček 12650
3.Trojan 12234
Bouldry:
1.Volf 11503
2.Konečný 11275
3.Novák 10900
Hory:
1.Groš 7968
2.Rojko 7592
3.Skopec 7324

Results
SP boulder Praha (CZE) (06.06)
Melloblocco (07.05)
ČP v lezení na obtížnost Praha (01.05)

Diary
5744 lezců
1162843 cest
Nové přelezy:
Překvapení 9
Hlasy Ze Z Xc
Jay&Sneha 9/9+
Fishbone 9
Lámačka 9
Mahagonová Xa
Hipodrom Xa
Hradní Spá 10-
Hlasy Ze Z Xc
Jazda Dědo XIc

Indoors
Boulder Bar - Praha 7
Rock 'n' Wall - Plzeň
Lezecké centrum SmíchOFF - Praha 5

Shops
Outdoor Centrum Rock Point Poříčí - Praha 1
Outdoor Centrum Rock Point Masarykova - Brno
Lezec-shop.cz - Štěchovice

Contact
REDAKCE:
standalezec.cz
ŠÉFREDAKTOR:
jirkaslezec.cz
INZERCE:
standalezec.cz
IT:
hoplezec.cz

Mysterious mechanic

Climbing in Saxon

A Poetic article about a mystic experience with an old man.  He was a climber in Rathen (a sandstone area in Saxon Germany) next to Czech border. It originally appeared on the Czech version of this site www.Lezec.cz .

This poetic text by Jarda Marsik (Decin, CZ) is hard to translate, so we will keep it quite brief.

“He was a such mysterious mechanic. He was shoeless, old, bald and bearded.”


The mysterious  mechanic


and once more


“He climbed alone, soloing quietly in silence. In the beginning, we said nothing - we were so shocked. It happened in Spring, March to be exact. A nice weather forecast lured us to Rathen…”
We climbed the valley route to Höllenhund tower and its 70-meter wall. We were at the 3rd ring when we noticed him on the wall of the next tower Hinterer Höllenhundturm.

He was Soloing the route Talweg VI (Saxon scale – 5 UIAA). It was a bold act to be sure,  but we can understand it. The route is not too high, and not as vertical as our “bigwall” on Höllenhund …
From the front peak we went to the main peak by the route variant Alternative VIIIb. Astonisher,  we saw the fellow had climbed just to a small chimney between the front peak and the main peak. He had to join to the Höllenhund wall and he continued to the peak by this direction. He was there faster than we were. He greeted us silently, did not sign to the peak book and sat at the sunshine and looked around the country.


and on the peak


We began to wonder whether he would need our help with abseiling down. To go down without the rope from Höllenhund is no fun...
But as we were contemplating the matter, the old man disappeared in the spot where the route Herrenpartie ends - the one from the most vertical walls in Saxon in nearly 80-metres height.
We started quickly to abseil to see how it happened. From the bottom, the Höllenhund was empty and the fellow moved somewhere in upper parts on the right side. Probably he climbed back. According to a climbing guide book he probably climbed Südwestwand VIIb (6 UIAA)…


The way down


We learned that this was not the only route he soloed, when we met the gentleman once more on Falkenstein (Saxon, Germany) in the similar solo.

And we though about him and his blue work pants? We got it! “He must have a fury at home, a years ago she prohibited him climbing and sold his equipment. He only can dress casually, to announce the departure to his job and set the right direction to the sandstone towers where he is absolutely FREE.”



The probable track


Tschüs


(Editorial´s remark: the story causes a discussion in forum. The readers speculated who is the mysterious old man. The names of other similar old men were mentioned. Look at: www.Lezec.cz (in Czech language). In some German forum he was identified as Rudi – look: http://www.teufelsturm.de/forum/index.php (go to the discussion on January 7 - German language)
http://www.kleimbing.de/Storys_mit_Fotos/Elbsandstein/elbsandstein.html
http://www.kleimbing.de/Storys_mit_Fotos/Elbsandstein/Elbi_5/elbi_5.html
- the sites are in German language)

Lezec.cz   [edit] 21:12 16.01.2005Print 

Reklama:

Commentaries

     
...new commentsNew comment 

 Photo of the day:

Nordverschneidung
 Routes:
All routes (184525)
Top routes in CR
Top boulders in CR
Latest routes
Majo-Verchneidung 4+ Teufelsteine
Alter Weg Silverstervariante 4 Teufelsteine
Hei Door Nei 7- Teufelsteine
Wiedervereinigung Verlängerung 5+ Teufelsteine
Osterspaziergang 5+ Teufelsteine
Latest comments:
Jižní Levá Cesta VII Prachov
Flyboy Xb Prachov
Huvinek 5 Teufelsteine
Dobbi 5+ Teufelsteine
Prázdná Schránka Xa Adršpach

 New in discussion:
Morocco Family Tours | Please help me complete my university bouldering project! | Will you go from CZECH REPUBLIC to LONDON, UK? | Re: Rental for crashpad?! | Clearance Moncler Down Women Coats Hooded Long Brown [MC-0006] - | Christmas Day UGG Sundance II 5325 Boots For Women Outlet | Moncler Vests Mens : Moncler Outlet, Cheap Moncler Jackets, Monc | Mr | Climbing partner, Praha saturday | Re: Climbing Partner |

 Latest comments:
Re: Mr.hi | Re: Mr. | Re: Mr. | Re: Mr.hi | Aktuelle Situation | Adrspach | Officiell Jimmy Choo Gretchen Krossad Metalliska sandaler [a7df] | Replica Baume & Mercier -australia migliori qualitĂ  replica | Borse Prada viaggio | John |

 Hot:
Youth European Championship in climbing (4)

 New in advertising:
Climbing Partner | Looking for a climbing partner | route setters |


 Instructions:
Climbing map

 ...

 czech climbing  forums  ankety  links  guides  fotky  video  *rss*  private policy       ceník reklamy Energy Cloud   NetPro systems, s.r.o.