This South facing crag is home to some of the finest sport routes in Bohemia.  Think of clean, crisp granite edges, perfectly rounded jugs, and

good friction.  With its close proximity to Prague and abundance of good routes of all grades, this crag is a great destination no matter what your ability.


The Roviste Classic: Čára života, former 9-, now 8+/9- but still demanding for endurance

The main wall, El Krakonoš, is located just to your right as you descend the ravine.  Here is the highest concentration of 6 -7+ routes; but beware, it also has the highest concentration of people wanting to climb these grades.  Not to be missed is El Krakonoš, and its neighboring route Česta Cesta.  At 7+ and 7 respectively, both sport vertical face climbing on immaculate rock. 


Another Roviste Classic: El Krakonoš 7+, Main Wall.  Some of the best granite face climbing that I’ve done anywhere at a moderate grade.

The Highlander Wall is home to several classic face climbs. Apache and Komanč are both just slightly less than vertical with excelent edge climbing. Good skin and finger strength are a must on these climbs. The Highlander wall has the best views of the Vltava and surrounding countryside I’ve yet seen in Roviste. If you want a good view, end you day with a route on this wall and savor the play of the setting sun across the picturesque Bohemian countryside. 


A proud foe indeed, Apache, 8+/9-, Hihghlander Wall  sending Hynek Charvát

The Hafty area contains the finest routes in Roviste, though they come with the hefty price tag of 8+, minimum.  If you can “realize” these grades you will be rewarded with superb lines, from 15 to 25 meters long.  Lida is somewhat of a Roviste test piece; come with the guns to pull a 6C+/7A crux and the endurance to finish the final 12 meters of maybe 7/7+ climbing.  The abundance of hard routes, up to UIAA 10, and possibilities for linking routes makes this area a place where even the best climbers can spend many trips. 


a living legend still pulls down hard on Čara Zivota


Don’t let the name fool you: Obladi Oblada is much better than it’s namesake

Beta:
Being granite, you can expect rock quality from the absolute finest to loose and blocky. Use your best judgment; if it looks loose it probably is. Ring bolts and single bolt anchors are common and make it easy to retreat from routes without leaving ‘biners.  A little tip for climbing on ring bolts: switch your quickdraws so that both ‘biners face the same direction, it will make clipping them much easier.  Because there is usually only one anchor, it is wise to keep the last bolt clipped while top-roping.  Don’t be lame while top roping or retreating; rappel off bolts rather than wear them out by lowering off them. 


A precarious moment on Woodoo Direct 8+/9-, Highlander Wall


Equipment:

Edging shoes will get you further here than soft slippers, but of course even tennis shoes will get you up the easiest routes.  Bring a set of perhaps ten draws, a sixty meter rope- as the main wall is a full 30 meters high, and perhaps a few nuts or small cams to back up the old slings on some routes.  If you don’t have them don’t worry; neither do most of the local climbers.  The cliffs here get sun for most of the day, so don’t forget your sun block and cap. 


Beginning yet another classic route - Svetla Stezka, Highlander Wall

Camp, bivak:
A nice camp is right in the Roviště area in opposite of parking lot. 


Guidebooks:
Topo at Lezec.cz Roviste topo


Situ of sectors

Directions:
15 km E of Pribram and 10 km west of Sedlcany. Crag is across the river, opposite of village Velka.

Climate:
Mild, open south facing walls receive mainly afternoon sun. Months:
Any, barring Winter

Other Info:  

Don’t miss the chance to take a quick dip in the Vltava after a hard day of climbing.  But be warned, the water is pumped from the bottom of a reservoir just up stream: it is very cold. 
Also, a visit to the beautiful town of Pribram is well worth it.  It has an absolutely lovely downtown with an even more amazing monastery above the town, which is free to tour. 



The Author pulling hard on the very bouldery Cerna Bricho, a rather stout 8+