Kaitersberg, or Kaitr for short, is nestled in the German mountains just across the border from the Sumava. 

From the summit of these outcrops you can see for tens of kilometers around- lush rolling hills and dark forests abound. This pristine beauty is only broken by the occasional village, Bavarian style with high pitched roofs and the wattle and daub siding that is the hallmark of rural Germany.



Figuring out how the Kraftwerk, Steinturm

But enough about the surroundings, what you want to know about is the climbing.  Yes it is there, and yes, it is quite good.  It is rather unique- the composition and formation of the rock- and it makes for a good change from Frankenjura limestone and Roviste granite.  It affords small, but friendlier holds than its northern cousin, and more overhangs and variety than Roviste.  The problem is that I cannot properly identify the rock, but I can make an educated guess and say that it is metamorphic rock similar to schist. 


Jana Lukasova warming up

The routes vary in grade and in length, from UIAA 4-11, from three bolts to many. 
You can also find a variety of styles of routes just next to each other.  In short, this is a great destination for groups of climbers with mixed abilities. 


For lighter routes, one can spend all day in the Corridor formed between the Steinturm and Rauchrohren.  There is an abundance of easier routes, and in the summer you can climb on the west facing wall in the morning, the east in the afternoon. 


No you are not look at this picture the wrong way, Siga on Head and Shoulders, 10-/10


Just around the corner on the Rauchrohren are the hardest lines in Kaitr.  They are about ten meters of 45 degree overhang followed by less sustained roofs above.  They both clock in at 10-/10 and 11-/11.  If this is beyond your limits, the thrilling Adrenalin to the left is as fine a route you can find for the grade.  Once potentially lethal due to a broken tree directly under the crux, it is now quite safe, though be prepared for some air time if you blow it at the crux.  On the right end of this block is the somewhat less spectacular Killer Condom, which at 8+ may be a little light for the grade. 


Fighting the pump on the Beautiful Pillen Gegen Traurigkeit,8+/9-

The Rauchwande is by far the best wall for harder climbing and it is also the tallest; though it is closed until mid summer due to bird nesting.  Please respect this seasonal closure.  If you are patient enough you will be rewarded with crisp edges on slightly to not so slightly overhanging rock.  Though I have no experience of my own, I hear that Pillen Gegen Traurigkeit and Presso Presso are the area classics, at 9-/9 and 9/9+ respectively. 


Herzenbrecher is a heartbreakingly stellar line at a not so hard grade.

Beta:

Climate: :
Late spring though early Autunm is the best time to visit, as Kaitr is situated at higher altitude.  I hear that in summer wild blueberries and mushrooms are abundant. 

Equipment: :
Ten quickdraws (express) and a 50 meter should be fine, but a 60 meter would hurt- just in case.  No additional gear is necessary, as the routes are quite tightly bolted.  Be sure to bring plenty of food and water, it is about a thirty minute hike up hill from the parking area.


Air time research on the Crash Test Block

Directions: :


 

Guides: :

A very fine topo can be found here on lezec.cz




Other Info:  :
If you like cycling or hiking, the neighboring Sumava Mountains are some of the most pristine in the region.  This is because it was a closed boarder region until 1989.  There are plenty of old roads no longer used by the military which meander though the forests and mountains.