Czech Climbing

In the half of the trip the well known photographer Herman Erber with his wife and asistent came.
After the arrival on 18.9.2006 to the capital Antanariva we moved to the national park Antingritida 800 km away on the south, where the 800 m high granit massive of Tsaranoro lies. We spent almost a month there.

photo by© Tomáš Sobotka

The main aim of the expedition was the first ascent throught the wall. The style of the first ascent was the same as is usual on our home sandstones (ground-up). The first we focused on the longest line of the massive Tsaranoro be. Beautiful, clear, black track from watter cross the entire 800 m long wall. The super line. It was clear, so we started to work.
During five days of drilling, climbing and jumaring we managed to reach the summit of
Tsaranoro be (1900 m). In to the 16 pitches (mostly about 55 m) of the route we drilled 140 bolts. The difficulties are mostly 7a and more, the key pitch is 7c+. The rock is formed by large grain granit. Curious is that there are mostly holds on the wall and classical crack climbing there has missed.

The workout in the wall
photo by© Tomáš Sobotka

After a rest we did the RP attempt. The climbing of all pitches in one day was quite exhausting. The difficulty of all pitches do not give us any possibility of the rest. From heating climbing shoes our feet pains a lot, so we had to climb as quick as possible. After 10,5 hours we reached the top and so we ticked the 1st RP of the route. The other day Hari and Floe did the 2nd repetition.

Tomáš in the key pitch 7c+ of the Shortcut
photo by© Ondra Beneš

Harald in the 14th pitch 7c of the Shortcut
photo by© Ondra Beneš

Topo of the route Shortcut

We spent the rest days by climbing of the other routes, by taking of photos and film the shots for video movie. Tomáš ands Floe sent OS climb of 400 m route "Always on sun" 7c+ on massive Tsaranoro Karambony.
Ondra did after 3 days of practising repeate 650 m route "Bravo les files" (first ascenters L.Hill-N.Feagan-K.Pyke-B.Rodden) on massive Tsaraoro Avaratra.
The rest of time we spent on the north of the island in the city of Diego Suarez (Atsiranana) - the town of beautiful women, beaches, limestone climbing on the mainland and small isles. Madagaskar is beautiful country with the very nice people. We recommend it very much. Believe you will enjoy it same well as we did.

Children
photo by© Tomáš Sobotka

8b on islands Nosy Hara, Tomáš Sobotka climbing, Hari Berger belaying
photo by© Ondra Beneš

We wanted to thank:

ČHS (Czech Mountaineering Union)
HUDY sport a Rock Empire
Hilti - Petr Maštálko
Direct alpine
Tendon

The other info and photos at: www.hudy.cz a www.horosvaz.cz (Czech language)

D.Žleb Company

Madagascar

2006

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