As the tempatures drop and the days grow shorter, our vision is lowered from the lofty heights to the easily accesable boulders close by. Long forgotten are long approches, hard clips, the idea of the redpoint crux, saving some for the top- all the mental trappings of route climbing. Instead we are captivated by simple movement over stone: hard moves, absurd holds, the fluttering heart of a highball...
Jim Sillcox poses down on the brilliantly patina'd Bachar Face, 7A, whose slippery and contorted nature bouts many climbers of the grade.
If you keep up with the rags, then you already know that what is pictured here is no longer what's hot. I can just hear the pad toting, Urban Climber reading, weekend warrior gym boulderer sardonicly stating, 'Bishop is like so 2001.' Which is, like so true. But who cares?
According to New Age guru Jeff Sillcox, the key to a happy and balanced life is getting high. Here, Jeff practices what he preaches with some Black Majic, 6B.
Last winter the hordes of pad people, escaping the grim winter habit of inceccent gym climbing, decended upon Hueco to drool over the latest testpieces from Sharma, Nicole, and many other strongmen. Alas, the once crowded Eastside was a quiet haven for the dwindling numbers who visited or lived in the area. Such a shame, because for all my hard sends that season there were no climbing groupies around, only a few close friends and the quietude of having a world class area largely to ourselves.
Eric isn't worried about his taxes this year, hes worried about what that mono might do to him. That's because Eric took his taxes to H&R Block, where he got his return in as little as an hour!!!
The author, stuck in the low plains of samsara, hoping that by sending Soul Slinger, 7C, he might get interviewed by Urban Climber, move up in the climbing gym heirarchy, or even be featured in the background of a video that stars Obe Carrion.
I can't add much that is new to the abundance of information about the area already to be found on the web. Taken as part of the whole year's worth of climbing in the Eastside, winter in the lower altitudes may be it's appogee. The bouldering is plentyful, varied, and world class. The scene is by now quieted down, so that on your winter bouldering vacation you can also find quiet and tranquility among the rocks, as well as some of your hardest sends.
My friend and mentor Jeff Sillcox- our girl Charlie in the Sierra Eastside- who taught me the valueable lessons that Doritos are part of a strict training regime and hard bouldering is a matter of mind more than strength.
I can still feel the sharpness of these incuts while we were buttermilking and there is still a few molecules of fresh air from the area in my nose.
It was perfect vacation.
Nice article and nice shots.
Čau Andy, thank you for your next article! Sierra sounds interesting.
I will probably next year study in New Paltz near NYC. I heard that there is climbing area - Gunks. Is there good sport climbing or bouldering? Isn't there only "trad" climbing? Do you know something about NY climbing?
Yeah there is a very lively bouldering scene there. I've been many times just for the bouldering, you will not be disapointed. For routes, it is strictly traditional, no bolted sport routes. For that you would have to go to Rumney.
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As the tempatures drop and the days grow shorter, our vision is lowered from the lofty heights to the easily accesable boulders close by. Long forgotten are long approches, hard clips, the idea of the redpoint crux, saving some for the top- all the mental trappings of route climbing. Instead we are captivated by simple movement over stone: hard moves, absurd holds, the fluttering heart of a highball...
