The Zap-O-Mat is a hybrid tuber unit which features an integrated a moving bolt to control the level of friction. The Zap-O-Mat is designed for a soft and dynamic belaying regardless of rope thickness.
Edelrid Zap-O-Mat belay device
photo by © Edelrid
The first impression is that it looks a little bit like a toy, but all the important parts are made from metal and even the plastic lever is fortified with a metal core.
By pushing the black button the device is opened and a rope loop can easily be placed into it (a small pictogram is on the side, which helps to find proper direction).
Opening of Zap – O - Mat
photo by © Edelrid
Putting a rope loop into it
photo by © JirkaS
Closing of Zap – O - Mat
foto by © JirkaS
Ready for belaying
photo by © JirkaS
Locking position
photo by © JirkaS
The way you put the rope into Zap O Mat is similar to tube belay device and finally the loop is hooked round the bolt. Then you close it by clicking the device and you are ready to belay. Quite quick and you don't have to unclip the device from your harness.
Belaying is provided with an adjustable bolt, which has two positions due to a loaded spring in the handle.
When you push the green
"spring load" button in the rope can run smoothly for on sight or red point attempts. On the other hand by releasing the spring by pushing the button on the bottom side of the handle, the central bolt moves easily and the rope in Zap-O-Mat blocks much easily- good for new belayers, skinny ropes, and hangdogging sessions.
When using a new rope it is very smooth. The rope goes smoothly without the tendency of self locking. Pressing the spring load button is the first precondition when you use an older rope.
When lowering, the integrated karabiner arrester prevents the unit from being pushed too far thus increasing the braking power. Lowering is rather slow which does no harm, but at certain point of pressing the handle the adjustable bolt shifts quickly into new stable position and it creates a small but not very pleasant bump.
For ropes from
8.9 mm to
10.5 mm, weight is about
158 g.
Device description (hi res)
photo by © JirkaS
Conclusion:
The Zap O Mat has very clever design, is light and effective with a high level of safety. Though the use of plastic and plastic buttons is certainly a detractor.
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Pros
+ easy to use
+ weight 158 g
+ you can leave it clipped while putting in a rope
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Cons
- plastic part
- slow lowering, with sudden bump
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Source:
For more info and to see the whole production look at Edelrid
Registration
lezec.cz
