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Vyšel průvodce Adršpach I.
Nová dětská kniha o světové top lezkyni Janje Garnbret
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SP Salt Lake City (03.05)
Olympijská kvalifikace Šanghaj (16.05)
ČP obtížnost Praha (18.05)

Ranking
Cesty:
47. 10085
48.Richter 10079
49.Čech 10050
Bouldry:
47.Chochola 8450
48.Šauli 8409
49.Zíma 8403
Hory:
25. 2691
26.Novotný 2660
27.Y 2639

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EP boulder Klagenfurt (26.04)
ČP obtížnost Brno (20.04)
SP Wujiang (12.04)

Diary
5561 lezců
1099052 cest
Nové přelezy:
Menší Post 9
Menší Post 9
River Raid 10+
Nuda V Jab 9
Krkavčí Ma 9+/10-
Chameleon 10
Krkavčí Ma 9+/10-
Hradní Spá 10-
Letní Krás 7C+
Roňin 7c

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Rock 'n' Wall - Plzeň
Big Wall - Praha 9 - Vysočany
Lezecká stěna Kbely - Praha 9 – Kbely

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Rock Point OC Olympia - Brno
Rock Point Plzeň Americká - Plzeň
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IT:
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Adam Ondra

Terranova, 8C+

smallAdam Ondra who is in the lead of both rankings (difficulty and boulder), sent before the weekend his longterm project in Moravian Karst.

Adam has not given a name yet but he believes that its hardest boulder he did and therefore it attacks the 8C+ level.

Now we've got an update:

Adam's new master piece has the name Terranova and is graded at 8C+ !.

Adam said: "This boulder is foremost about it's difficulty. I would like to emphasize that it is not the most beautiful, exposed line in the world. It does not go on top of the stone but it is only a traverse at the beginning of the wall. I always thought that it won't be possible.
I tried it for the first time last year and I understood  the moves. This year I have devoted to it the whole autumn. Boulder has about 12 hard moves and than 5 moves already easier finish.


01

Terranova, 8C+

photo by © Vojta Vrzba


It's traverse, low to the ground. The first three steps are going pretty hard (like 7C+), but the hardest is to breathe and relax properly and not to climb like a diver. Another four steps are desperately difficult, I think it could be about 8B. Must be able to place a bad heel, squeeze slippery grip and move feet three times while holding the slippery grip. Three another moves, which are only about 7B, lead to last two key moves which could be 8A+. Then 7B easier finish.
As for clasification:
Overall, I was trining this boulder eleven days and it is certainly my hardest boulders, I have ever done. I also think of it is quite specific and it fits to my style.
I garaded it as a 8C+.


About the name:

I did not want to give a complicated Czech name, which no one would remember, I also did not want English name, so I chose a compromise. So the name is Terranova.



02

Terranova, 8C+

photo by © Vojta Vrzba




Translated by

Jirka Sika   [edit] 09:40 14.11.2011Print 

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