Czech Climbing

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SP rychlost Polsko (05.07)
SP obtížnost, rychlost Chamonix (FRA) (11.07)
SP rychlost Klagenfurt (AUT) (26.07)


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Cesty:
1.Šindel 12747
2.Votoček 12650
3.Trojan 12234

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1.Volf 11503
2.Konečný 11275
3.Novák 10900

Hory:
1.Groš 7968
2.Rojko 7592
3.Skopec 7324


	Results

SP boulder, obtížnost Innsbruck (AUT) (25.06)
SP boulder Praha (CZE) (06.06)
Melloblocco (07.05)


	Diary

5752 lezců
1165091 cest

Nové přelezy:
Back On St 9/9+
Nagano 7C
Scarred Fo 8a+
Power Of N 8B+
Muttertag 8A
Scarred Fo 8a+
Nie Diät 9-
Götterhämm 9+
Longcalibu 9
Nie Diät 9-


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Lezecké centrum SmíchOFF - Praha 5
Prostor Letňany - Praha 9
Rožnov pod Radhoštěm - Rožnov pod Radhoštěm


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HUDYsport - Praha 1
Keen Concept Store - Palác Flóra - Praha 3
Outdoor Centrum Rock Point Poříčí - Praha 1


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Brief <img src=fotos/clanky04/c040410_.jpg border=0 align=right>There is an amazing, quite new area 50 km northwest from Plzen city.
Text (60 km west from Prague) This fantastic place consists of many areas within this major area with more than 500 boulder blocks (actually this is only estimated value just 500 were cleaned so far) and many thousands boulder problems/routes and with additional huge potential. <CENTER><IMG src="fotos/clanky04/c040410a.jpg" border=0></CENTER> <CENTER><I><FONT color=braun> Founder of the area Petr Resch in Našup, 8A </FONT></I></CENTER> All of these locations are situated in scenic natural surroundings, in forests and in nice hilly landscape. Not far from small village Petrohrad, which is a quiet rustic place situated within triangle of three towns Plzen, Karlovy Vary and Prague. Bouldering here is extremely varied. There are plenty of problems accross the full grade range up to 8B. Many slabs and grimpy overhangs. All grips are sharp and surface rough. <CENTER><IMG src="fotos/clanky04/c040410b.jpg" border=0></CENTER> <CENTER><I><FONT color=braun> The best Czech boulderer Rosťa Štefanek in No entry, 8A</FONT></I></CENTER> One the one hand it brings excellent friction on the other hand unlike Fontainebleau the material is very skin destructive so you can hardly climb three and more days in a row. <CENTER><IMG src="fotos/clanky04/c040410c.gif" border=1></CENTER> People living here are usually very friendly, rustic and good-natured. They love foreigners. Pubs and restaurants offer excellent cooking. In the very center of village Petrohrad is a cute pub you can eat and drink here very good beer. There's very good pizza restaurant nearby ( at the crossroads of the Karlovy Vary - Prague route ). The prices here are fairly low. ( one big pizza 70-100 Kč =2-3 Euro. In fact all living expenses are low, including climbing gear, food, gas and accommodations. Stop by in Plzen sport shops to by some cheap boulder pads or other stuff. <CENTER><IMG src="fotos/clanky04/c040410d.gif" border=1></CENTER> <CENTER><I><FONT color=braun> Access to the sub areas </FONT></I></CENTER> <b>Approach: </b> Petrohrad village is one of the villages situated close to the very center of the area. However, like Fontainebleau, the village is aside and gives just the name for the whole area. There are also many subspots, which makes it a little bit more complicated to get to. Anyway Petrohrad is the village you should start from. If you are approaching from Plzeň heading to north west on E 19 you first will pass small town Plasy and Kralovice then you will turn left to Petrohrad. (2km) or if you are approaching from Prague take the direction to Karlovy Vary. Once you are there, continue along the scheme and park at main square or at cemetery. <CENTER><IMG src="fotos/clanky04/c040410e.jpg" border=0></CENTER> <CENTER><I><FONT color=braun> Hop is doing 6A+ </FONT></I></CENTER> <b>Maps, topos, GPS coordinates:</b> The best map of the area is the tourist map Jesenicko 1:50 000. <IMG src="fotos/clanky04/c040410i.gif" border=0 align=left> <b>GPS: </b> Parking village: N50.12505 E13.44471 374m above the sea level Parking cemetery: N50.12341 E13.43919 399m above the sea level Parking upper area: N50 07 18.7 E13 27 32.3 Parking Wind stone (Větrná hůrka) : N50 07 20.6 E13 27 07.7 Chappell: N50 07 14.7 E13 26 23.1 471m above the sea level <b><A HREF=http://www.lezec.cz/pruvodcx.php?key=961 Target =_blank> Guide at Lezec.cz</A></b> <b>Sleeping, where to stay?:</b> Except from some strictly protected areas of the national parks fireless camping is allowed near the climbing areas. There are usually a lot of campgrounds, where you can stay and keep your budget low. As well as plenty private B&B rooms are available in Czech. Unfortunately in this area Petrohradske skaly (Petrohrad rocks) there is a lack of such a facilities, it is not a vacation area at all. So if you will be just a few climbers, you can stay somewhere in nature and even build a tent without any trouble, just to have enough water or an access to get it. If there will be more than lets say 5 people and two tents you should go to camp, this camp probably will be nearby and you are supposed to be commuting for a few kilometers to the area. If you cross some private piece of land, don't worry, the land owner will never shoot. <CENTER><IMG src="fotos/clanky04/c040410f.jpg" border=0></CENTER> <CENTER><I><FONT color=braun> Luky is doing 6C+ </FONT></I></CENTER> <b>Currencies, costs: </b> Czech crone (1Euro=30Kc) Dinner costs 50-70 KC(2,5 Euro), Two most important liquids: Beer 0,5l ... 10-15 KC (0.5 Euro /0.5l) Petrol ..... 0.75 Euro/l Accomodation Camping - 2 - 5 Euro In private (like B&B without breakfast ) - 6 -12 Euro In hotel 10 - 20 Euro On the Down Side: A high percentage (70 %) of population can't speak English, at this part of my country there are be surely people with fluent German. The best bouldering area is definitely <b>Petrohrad rocks </b> Please feel free by searching our sites, unfortunately there is no complete English version, but you can find a way by using this small dictionary. Surf on the web page www.lezec.cz. Switch to the English version. There is a row of buttons on the top. One of them is: Guide - now you move to the only existing version of betas, which in Czech language. Then you go to: Severní Cechy (department) on the north west of our country Rakovnicko Jesenicko- this is the section (major area) you are looking for: Petrohradke skaly area <CENTER><IMG src="fotos/clanky04/c040410g.jpg" border=0></CENTER> <CENTER><I><FONT color=braun> John is doing 6A</FONT></I></CENTER> From that you can get some overview map and particular blocks boulders. This topo is only topo you can get, but don't be afraid there is always someone willing to show you the right direction. I realized, while I was bouldering there recently, that there could be some secularities, especially for foreigners. Some troubles regarding not existing topo/map and description is not in any Europe language but Czech. To avoid use the detailed map. There are some other secularities there. Firstly there is so huge development that at this moment there are between 7 hundred and one thousand boulders and every week adds couple new lines, so even locals can't manage to describe everything. There is still lack of an overview map. If you do a new direction please try to document it and send it to me we are eagerly looking for any contribution. And we will be really gratitude if you do so. <CENTER><IMG src="fotos/clanky04/c040410h.jpg" border=0></CENTER> <CENTER><I><FONT color=braun> Bída traversing at Elektrárna a 7A’s </FONT></I></CENTER> You can stay at Maly Yomenite at Větrná Hůrka hill in opposite of Chapel (there is a Beržerak boulder on the map) Secondly be aware about not leaving something valuable in your car. This nasty habit arrived even in this god forgotten countryside. Left your front box open and that's all. You can even add a note that there are no money in the car. in Czech ( v autě nejsou žádné peníze ) If you decide to climb here the weather is not such a big issue here should be just without rain. Windy weather doesn't harm your climbing session. Take a brush with. Sometimes a teeth brush is not strong enough try something more powerful. It is solid and rough granite so eventually you can use a wire brush as well. <CENTER><IMG src="fotos/clanky04/c040410j.jpg" border=0></CENTER> <CENTER><I><FONT color=braun> Azbest in 7B at Mlynář </FONT></I></CENTER> <b>Recommended sub area – Větrná hůrka</b> <CENTER><IMG src="fotos/clanky04/c040410o.gif" border=1></CENTER> <CENTER><I><FONT color=braun> The big picture of Větrná Hůrka </FONT></I></CENTER> <b>1) Mordor</b> <CENTER><IMG src="fotos/clanky04/c040410p.gif" border=1></CENTER> <CENTER><I><FONT color=braun> Mordor </FONT></I></CENTER> 1) 3 2/2 2) 3 2/2 3) Pravá hrana 5c 2/2 4) Levá hrana 5b 2/2 5) Pytlová ulice 5b 1/1, sit start 6b SD 2/1 6) Na krev 8a SD 1/1 (right hand side pull ) slightly right over two edges on the main edge 7) Žihadlo 7c+ SD 1/1 from the side pull over under cling straight ,from stand up 6c 1/1 h) Glum 7b SD 1/1 from the side pull to the left edge and via it up i) Milášek 7a SD 1/1 j) Blesk 6c SD 2/1 k) Odula 6c SD 3/2 <CENTER><IMG src="fotos/clanky04/c040410k.jpg" border=0></CENTER> <CENTER><I><FONT color=braun>Unknown climber is sending Vašek, 7C+ at President </FONT></I></CENTER> <b>2) Skřet</b> <CENTER><IMG src="fotos/clanky04/c040410q.gif" border=1></CENTER> <CENTER><I><FONT color=braun> Skřet and Strážce</FONT></I></CENTER> 1) 1 1/1 <b>3) Strážce</b> 1) 1 1/1 2) 1 1/1 <b>4) Mučírna</b> <CENTER><IMG src="fotos/clanky04/c040410r.gif" border=1></CENTER> <CENTER><I><FONT color=braun> Mučírna </FONT></I></CENTER> 1) 6a SD 3/1 2) Blboun 5b SD 3/1 3) Hezoun 6b CH 1/2 4) Krváček 6a CH 1/2 5) Velkej blboun 6b+ CH 2/1 6) Velkej hezoun 6b+ CH 1/1 7) Čachtice 5b CH 1/2 8) No exit 7c+ CH 1/3 from the big hold right a up to the crag 9) No entry 7c+(8a)SD 1/2 from the hole right hand (left hand lower) over a grimpy grip to the crag 10) Vrtulník 6c SD 3/3 stand up start 5a 1/2 11) Traverzík 5b 1/2 traverse via crag 12) Josemitská klasika 5c 2/3 13) Padák 6b 1/3 14) projekt 15) Samolepa 6b SD 1/2 from the hole straight 16) Meresjev 7a SD 1/2 from the hole right over the edge, finish via a wall <b>5) Vidiečan</b> <CENTER><IMG src="fotos/clanky04/c040410s.gif" border=1></CENTER> <CENTER><I><FONT color=braun> Vidiečan</FONT></I></CENTER> 1) Sláma z bot 6b 1/1 2) 3) Missis venkov 6b+ SD 1/1 from the slopper traverse to the "Miss" and via this rout to the top (without the stone under overhang) 4) Traktorista 6a+ SD 1/2 5) Miss venkov 5c 1/1 6) Ananasovej expres 6b+ 1/4 jump right to the edge 7) Tláča s cibulí 7a SD 1/1 with help of stone <CENTER><IMG src="fotos/clanky04/c040410l.jpg" border=0></CENTER> <CENTER><I><FONT color=braun>Bída is landing, a boulder pad is recommended </FONT></I></CENTER> <b>Tip :</b> How to communicate: Maybe a small Czech - English (German) dictionary will be convenient and if you'll print our web site topo you could be quite comfortable there. About climbing: My recommendation would be to simply wonder around like a kid in a sweet shop and try whatever takes your fancy. You have probably found it if not try this in section of Pruvodce on the upper line is: 19 line is Rakovnicko a Jesenicko and under this topic is Kapucínské skály, Mlýnský vrch, Petrohradské skály and Vlčí kopec. There is one more area under development its name is Kosobody. Most interesting is Petrohradske skaly and Mlynsky vrch. <CENTER><IMG src="fotos/clanky04/c040410m.jpg" border=0></CENTER> <CENTER><I><FONT color=braun> Unknown boulderer at Velryba, problem Pěna, 6C+</FONT></I></CENTER> <CENTER><IMG src="fotos/clanky04/c040410n.jpg" border=0></CENTER> <CENTER><I><FONT color=braun> Hop is traversing a 7A’s</FONT></I></CENTER>
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