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Czech Climbing

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SP Bern (22.05)
SP Madrid (28.05)
SP Praha (04.06)


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Cesty:
1.Šindel 12928
2.Votoček 12750
3.Širůčková 11897

Bouldry:
1.Ondra 11434
2.Volf 11328
3.Trojan 11200

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2.Groš 7924
3.Skopec 7183


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ČP v lezení na obtížnost Brno (25.04)
Petrohradské Padání (24.04)
MČR v ledolezení na obtížnost (07.03)


	Diary

5928 lezců
1221702 cest

Nové přelezy:
Drakunda 8+/9-
Skleroza 7b+
Auswärtssp 8+/9-
Nullkomman 9+/10-
Triebwerke 10
Les Beaufs 7b
Hydraulika 7C
Halloween Xc
Bumerang 9+
Člověk Bez XIa


	Indoors

Big Wall - Praha 9 - Vysočany
Lezecké centrum SmíchOFF - Praha 5
Rock 'n' Wall - Plzeň


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Outdoor Centrum Rock Point Masarykova - Brno


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REDAKCE:
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lezec.cz
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lezec.cz
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IT:
hop

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Brief <img src=fotos/clanky04/c041207_.jpg border=0 align=right>Three Italian mountaineers have climbed a magnificent new line and reached the top of Cerro Torre in Patagonia.
Text They reached the top on 13/11/2004 at 21.00. The team Ermanno Salvaterra, Alessandro Beltrami and Giacomo Rossetti established a new direct route up the East Face of the Torre the top of Cerro Torre, which can finally be regarded as the solution to the unresolved East Face.. <b>The ascent </b> The web site <b>planetmountain.com</B> has reported that mountaineers reached El Chalten on 30 October and immediately began transporting gear to the ice cave beneath the East Face, and equipping the first section of the route. The true journey up the wall, with nights spent on the portaledges, began on 7 November. Matteo Rivadossi, the fourth expedition member, had been forced to return to Italy due to knee problems, and so the trio continued upwards, despite the poor weather. <CENTER><IMG src="fotos/clanky04/c041207a.jpg" border=0></CENTER> <CENTER><I><FONT color=braun> Cerro Torre </FONT></I></CENTER> On 9 November they reached the "Lama di Roccia", dubbed "Dalai Lama". One day later they reached the 2001 highpoint, and they then continued climbing up virgin terrain, with 18 hour days. On 12 November the three were 450m short of the summit, while at 21.00 the next day the reached the top. They bivied until 04.15 and then, unable to withstand the biting cold, descended to the portaledge. A patagonian storm forced them to spend another night on the wall, but yesterday morning 16/11/2004 all three safely reached the base of the East Face. Salvaterra, who had attempted the line in 2001 together with Mauro Giovanazzi, Paolo Calzà and Walter Gobbi. Three years ago the four had been forced to abandon their attempt roughly 600m short of the summit due to bad weather. <b>Great achievement </b> The planetmountain.com further says that this new route is without a doubt a great and magnificent achievement, which can now be added to Burke and Proctor's 1981 "East Diedre" (6c/A4) which climbs the large overhanging corner for 300m before moving onto the North Face, and the"Directisima del Infierno", first ascended in 1986 by an expedition comprised of Karo, Knez, Jegli, Podgornik, Kozjek and Fistravec. In its final 150m this Slovenian route joins Cesare Maestri's "Compressor route" up the East Ridge, and is graded ED+ 8+/A3, 90°. <CENTER><IMG src="fotos/clanky04/c041207c.jpg" border=0></CENTER> <CENTER><I><FONT color=braun> The map of the Cerro Torre area </FONT></I></CENTER>
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