Czech Climbing

CZECH CLIMBING

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	Books

Na trh přišla kniha o horách a řekách Dobrodružství v prášku
Vyšlo 2. vydání průvodce pro bouldering v Divoké Šárce v Praze
Křest Perel východu a video ze Stránské skály


	Competitions

SP rychlost Polsko (05.07)
SP obtížnost, rychlost Chamonix (FRA) (11.07)
SP rychlost Klagenfurt (AUT) (26.07)


	Ranking

Cesty:
1.Šindel 12747
2.Votoček 12650
3.Trojan 12234

Bouldry:
1.Volf 11503
2.Konečný 11275
3.Novák 10900

Hory:
1.Groš 7968
2.Rojko 7592
3.Skopec 7324


	Results

SP boulder, obtížnost Innsbruck (AUT) (25.06)
SP boulder Praha (CZE) (06.06)
Melloblocco (07.05)


	Diary

5752 lezců
1165091 cest

Nové přelezy:
Back On St 9/9+
Nagano 7C
Scarred Fo 8a+
Power Of N 8B+
Muttertag 8A
Scarred Fo 8a+
Nie Diät 9-
Götterhämm 9+
Longcalibu 9
Nie Diät 9-


	Indoors

Boulder Bar - Praha 7
V 16 - Plzeň
Lezecká stěna Kbely - Praha 9 – Kbely


	Shops

LANEX eshop - Bolatice
Rock Point OC Olympia - Brno
Rock Point Plzeň Americká - Plzeň


	Contact

REDAKCE:
standa

lezec.cz
ŠÉFREDAKTOR:
jirkas

lezec.cz
INZERCE:
standa

lezec.cz
IT:
hop

lezec.cz

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Brief <img src=fotos/clanky06/c060211_.jpg border=0 align=right> I sit in the back parking lot of the funky hippie store/ bath house at the entrance to the park on a quiet Monday morning.
Text The sun warms the air in my car to a sleepy stuffyness. I am reading A History of Civilizations by Braudel. The traffic on route sixty two lazily drifts by while birds sing in the small trees superimposed on the azure desert sky. It feels like spring here already. <center><img src="fotos/clanky06/c060211a.jpg" border=0></center> <center><I><font color=braun> Invisibility_lessons </font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver> foto by© Andrew Burgoon </font></i></center> Southern California: sunshine in the disinterested, almost contemptous winter season; a noseful of Nag Champa drifting through the campsite; the incessant chatter of a nervous UCLA student taking his novice girlfriend out for her first 5.6 outdoor route- being no adept himself; off beat and monotonous bongo drums at the end of a perfect day that you wish would go away; hand rolled cigarettes of organic tobacco- of course; the incessant diarrhea of second hand climbing stories around the campfire, dirtbags making the rounds around camp with the mandatory Pabst or micro brew in hand- a climbing rope cum dog leash in the other; the enthusiasm of clean cut Midwestern converts to the nomadic, se la vie ways of the climbing community; those who love the idea and lifestyle more than the act itself, who cherish above all scabs and scars-those red badges of courage- more so than the clean, quiet accent that is shared with none other than your belay and the wind; The 5.10 ‘hardmen’ who have led the classic 5.8s on nuts; the decided absence of females from the campground. This, in a word- or rather an extremely run-on sentence- are my observations about the human element of J Tree. I look on these things- having lived some of them myself in younger times- with an air of nostalgia tinted with indifference, indeed at times even with annoyance. <center><img src="fotos/clanky06/c060211b.jpg" border=0></center> <center><I><font color=braun> </font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver> foto by© Andrew Burgoon </font></i></center> Joshua Tree has struck me as a place of dreams- both living and sleeping, lucid and unconscious. I leave here having touched and lived into some of those dreams. There comes a point in one’s life when you can step into the possibility of living your dreams in the now. Failure is an ever present possibility. <center><img src="fotos/clanky06/c060211c.jpg" border=0></center> <center><I><font color=braun> </font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver> foto by© Andrew Burgoon </font></i></center> <center><img src="fotos/clanky06/c060211d.jpg" border=0></center> <center><I><font color=braun> </font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver> foto by© Andrew Burgoon </font></i></center> I have spent the last two weeks taking it easy due to a mild bout of elbow tendonitis. Last week I spent falling on climbs a full grade easier than my goal. I had stomach problems (canned tuna is the number one suspect) for days. Conditions did not seam ideal to push for my goal. <center><img src="fotos/clanky06/c060211e.jpg" border=0></center> <center><I><font color=braun> </font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver> foto by© Andrew Burgoon </font></i></center> But ideal conditions rarely exist in this world, so aptly desctribed by Buddhists as engulfed in the ‘red dust’ of life. In the end you can wait for the perfect opportunity- which may never come- or you can open yourself to the imperfect opportunity of the here and now. Last Friday I did just that; very unsure of the outcome, but what would it be worth if it was? <center><img src="fotos/clanky06/c060211f.jpg" border=0></center> <center><I><font color=braun> </font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver> foto by© Andrew Burgoon </font></i></center> The resulting climb was one of the best in my life, if not the best. Inspired by the tenacity of my climbing partner (he had just learned trad climbing and now he was taking falls on 5.9) and the music of Marvin Gaye (the Midnight Love album- go buy it now) I approached the climb. Leave It To Beaver is superb climbing- varied, overhanging, and beautiful. But it was that unsure feeling, through direct action slowly turned into the realization that dreams become reality by opening yourself to them, that made it memorable. <center><img src="fotos/clanky06/c060211g.jpg" border=0></center> <center><I><font color=braun> Josh </font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver> foto by© Andrew Burgoon </font></i></center>
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Bienvenue Au Georges V 6a+ Envers Des Aiguilles
Kinglajno 9-/9 Blázon
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Danke Für Alles 7+ Frankenjura
Stínová Spára VIIa Horní Skály


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