Czech Climbing

CZECH CLIMBING

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	Books

Na trh přišla kniha o horách a řekách Dobrodružství v prášku
Vyšlo 2. vydání průvodce pro bouldering v Divoké Šárce v Praze
Křest Perel východu a video ze Stránské skály


	Competitions

SP rychlost Polsko (05.07)
SP obtížnost, rychlost Chamonix (FRA) (11.07)
SP rychlost Klagenfurt (AUT) (26.07)


	Ranking

Cesty:
1.Šindel 12747
2.Votoček 12650
3.Trojan 12234

Bouldry:
1.Volf 11503
2.Konečný 11275
3.Novák 10900

Hory:
1.Groš 7968
2.Rojko 7592
3.Skopec 7324


	Results

SP boulder, obtížnost Innsbruck (AUT) (25.06)
SP boulder Praha (CZE) (06.06)
Melloblocco (07.05)


	Diary

5752 lezců
1165090 cest

Nové přelezy:
Nagano 7C
Scarred Fo 8a+
Power Of N 8B+
Muttertag 8A
Scarred Fo 8a+
Nie Diät 9-
Götterhämm 9+
Longcalibu 9
Nie Diät 9-
Le Mangana 8a


	Indoors

Rock 'n' Wall - Plzeň
SAUNA - Plzeň
Big Wall - Praha 9 - Vysočany


	Shops

Outdoor Centrum Rock Point Perštýn - Praha 1
Rock Point OC Olympia - Brno
Rock Point Plzeň Americká - Plzeň


	Contact

REDAKCE:
standa

lezec.cz
ŠÉFREDAKTOR:
jirkas

lezec.cz
INZERCE:
standa

lezec.cz
IT:
hop

lezec.cz

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Brief <img src=fotos/standa/06/clanky/madagaskar/8bnaostrovechNosyHarassm.jpg border=0 align=right>A week ago we returned from the succesful expedition Madagascar 2006. Tomáš Sobotka and Ondra Beneš (D.Žleb Company, Czech Republic), and then two Austrians: Harald Berger and Florian Scheimpflug participated.
Text In the half of the trip the well known photographer Herman Erber with his wife and asistent came. After the arrival on 18.9.2006 to the capital Antanariva we moved to the national park Antingritida 800 km away on the south, where the 800 m high granit massive of Tsaranoro lies. We spent almost a month there. <center><img src="fotos/standa/06/clanky/madagaskar/topotsaranorovmalovanis.jpg" border=0></center> <center><i><font color=silver>photo by© Tomáš Sobotka</font></i></center> The main aim of the expedition was the first ascent throught the wall. The style of the first ascent was the same as is usual on our home sandstones (ground-up). The first we focused on the longest line of the massive Tsaranoro be. Beautiful, clear, black track from watter cross the entire 800 m long wall. The super line. It was clear, so we started to work. During five days of drilling, climbing and jumaring we managed to reach the summit of Tsaranoro be (1900 m). In to the 16 pitches (mostly about 55 m) of the route we drilled 140 bolts. The difficulties are mostly 7a and more, the key pitch is 7c+. The rock is formed by large grain granit. Curious is that there are mostly holds on the wall and classical crack climbing there has missed. <center><img src="fotos/standa/06/clanky/madagaskar/pracevestenes.jpg" border=0></center> <center><I><font color=braun> The workout in the wall </font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver>photo by© Tomáš Sobotka</font></i></center> After a rest we did the RP attempt. The climbing of all pitches in one day was quite exhausting. The difficulty of all pitches do not give us any possibility of the rest. From heating climbing shoes our feet pains a lot, so we had to climb as quick as possible. After 10,5 hours we reached the top and so we ticked the 1st RP of the route. The other day Hari and Floe did the 2nd repetition. <center><img src="fotos/standa/06/clanky/madagaskar/Tomajdavklicovedelceza7c+s.jpg" border=0></center> <center><I><font color=braun> Tomáš in the key pitch 7c+ of the Shortcut </font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver>photo by© Ondra Beneš</font></i></center> <center><img src="fotos/standa/06/clanky/madagaskar/harive14.delceza7ccestyshortcuts.jpg" border=0></center> <center><I><font color=braun> Harald in the 14th pitch 7c of the Shortcut </font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver>photo by© Ondra Beneš</font></i></center> <center><img src="fotos/standa/06/clanky/madagaskar/toposhortcuts.jpg" border=0></center> <center><I><font color=braun> Topo of the route Shortcut </font></I></center> We spent the rest days by climbing of the other routes, by taking of photos and film the shots for video movie. Tomáš ands Floe sent OS climb of 400 m route "Always on sun" 7c+ on massive Tsaranoro Karambony. Ondra did after 3 days of practising repeate 650 m route "Bravo les files" (first ascenters L.Hill-N.Feagan-K.Pyke-B.Rodden) on massive Tsaraoro Avaratra. The rest of time we spent on the north of the island in the city of Diego Suarez (Atsiranana) - the town of beautiful women, beaches, limestone climbing on the mainland and small isles. Madagaskar is beautiful country with the very nice people. We recommend it very much. Believe you will enjoy it same well as we did. <center><img src="fotos/standa/06/clanky/madagaskar/detis.jpg" border=0></center> <center><I><font color=braun> Children </font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver>photo by© Tomáš Sobotka</font></i></center> <center><img src="fotos/standa/06/clanky/madagaskar/holcickauryzes.jpg" border=0></center> <center><I><font color=braun> The girl with rice </font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver>photo by© Ondra Beneš</font></i></center> <center><img src="fotos/standa/06/clanky/madagaskar/8bnaostrovechNosyHaras.jpg" border=0></center> <center><I><font color=braun> 8b on islands Nosy Hara, Tomáš Sobotka climbing, Hari Berger belaying </font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver>photo by© Ondra Beneš</font></i></center> We wanted to thank: ČHS (Czech Mountaineering Union) HUDY sport a Rock Empire Hilti - Petr Maštálko Direct alpine Tendon The other info and photos at: <b><a href=http://www.hudy.cz/ target=_blank>www.hudy.cz</a></b> a <b><a href=http://www.horosvaz.cz / target=_blank>www.horosvaz.cz </a></b> (Czech language) D.Žleb Company <center><img src="fotos/standa/06/clanky/madagaskar/D.zleb.companys.jpg" border=0></center> <center><I><font color=braun> D.Žleb Company (Tomáš Sobotka on left, Ondra Beneš right)</font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver>photo by© Tomáš Sobotka</font></i></center> <i>(Translated by Lezec.cz)</i>
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