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	Competitions

SP rychlost Polsko (05.07)
SP obtížnost, rychlost Chamonix (FRA) (11.07)
SP rychlost Klagenfurt (AUT) (26.07)


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3.Trojan 12234

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1.Volf 11503
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3.Novák 10900

Hory:
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2.Rojko 7592
3.Skopec 7324


	Results

SP boulder, obtížnost Innsbruck (AUT) (25.06)
SP boulder Praha (CZE) (06.06)
Melloblocco (07.05)


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Nové přelezy:
Back On St 9/9+
Nagano 7C
Scarred Fo 8a+
Power Of N 8B+
Muttertag 8A
Scarred Fo 8a+
Nie Diät 9-
Götterhämm 9+
Longcalibu 9
Nie Diät 9-


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Brief <img src=fotos/fil_2336.jpg align=right> A rather bold statement, no? While I am by no means an encyclopedia of American climbing, I have been around the block a few times. And the Red River Gorge is the nicest house on Sport Climbing Street, believe that. While other areas, such as Smith Rock, may have more historical value, no single area in the US offers as much variety as well as quality as the Red. Don't believe me? There is only one way to find out...
Text <center><img src="fotos/fil_2319.jpg" border=0></center> <center><I><font color=braun> The author climbs out of the low plains of Samsara on the most beautiful 5.12b this side of the pond. </font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver> foto by© Jimmy Farrell</font></i></center> Ever since I left the heart of Europe and all it has to offer- weekends in the Jura, proximity and access to the finest European crags- there has been a dearth in my life. I have searched my homeland over for something to fill the void, some crag to inspire me as much as those of Europe. While out West I found little bits and nibbles, a good route here, a nice area there- but nothing that equalled the experiance I had in the Jura... That is until I decided to check out the Red on my way back East to visit family. While out West I began to hear bits and pieces about the Red from excited friends. It was on the way, so it was natural that I stopped to have a look at what the Red had to offer. What I found was an expansive area on par with what I had seen in Europe in terms of quality, quantity and variety. It is ironic that when I lived on the East coast I dreamed of nothing but climbing out West, only to find that my favorite area lay much closer than Yosemite or Bishop. <center><img src="fotos/fil_2321.jpg" border=0></center> <center><I><font color=braun> Arizona dreamboat 'YOSAR Teddy' floats through a sea of name calling and big moves on Hippocrate, 5.12a, at the Zoo. </font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver> foto by© Andrew Burgoon </font></i></center> The Red is situated in the sleepy foothills of the Appalachians in rural eastern Kentucky. The climate is mild continental, with cool winters and hot, humid summers. Indeed, while the Red is no destination in either of these seasons, Fall and Spring are not to be missed- Fall being the dryer of the two. Speaking of weather, it seems that this area gets a good bit more rain than most other sport climbing areas in the US as well. But don't let that deter you; you can climb at many crags even in the heaviest downpour. <center><img src="fotos/fil_2338.jpg" border=0></center> <center><I><font color=braun> <a href=http://www.raylewis52.com/ target=_blank> Ray Lewis</a> is about as godly as the Undertow wall is slabby. here, Scotty gets down on his knees and prays for a send on Tuna Town, 5.12d. </font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver> foto by© Andrew Burgoon </font></i></center> The Red is made of solid sandstone, well featured and formed usually into horseshoe shaped overhanging grottos, dubbed 'hollars' by the locals. On any given route you will pull on bullet hard crimps, pockets, and those big, rounded slopers that sandstone is known for. If there is a defining charicteristic of the Red it is it's almost constantly overhanging nature. Whether the route is 15 or 40 meters, you are bound to feel the pump at the Red: endurance and power endurance are premiums here. You will, however, still find many routes here with bouldery and/or technical cruxes. Seek and ye shall find... <center><img src="fotos/fil_2322.jpg" border=0></center> <center><I><font color=braun> We have a saying here in 'merica: Irish need not apply. An apparently illiterate Irishman sets off anyways on King Me, 5.11b one of the finest routes of it's grade in the gorge.</font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver> foto by© Andrew Burgoon </font></i></center> The scene at the Red is small but lively, and is centered around Miguel's pizza shop. There you will find all you need for your stay in the Red- camping, great food, free internet, nightly campfires and if need be a partner. In season, get ready for crowded weekends, a long wait for pizza and lots of spray around the campfire. <center><img src="fotos/fil_2324.jpg" border=0></center> <center><I><font color=braun> An artist's interpretation of Barry dePrey's first accent of The Czech-American Worker's Guild Route. Once 5.13 in the days of hobnail boots, it is now a classic, but lowly 5.12a.</font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver> foto by© Zep Greto </font></i></center> But I ask that you not take my word for it, that you come and see for yourself what the Red has to offer. I myself am happy to count the days until Spring, when I will once again chase my dreams through the turning valleys and hillsides, up into them there hollars, and up some of the finest stone I have ever climbed. <IMG src="fotos/clanky/minilogo_prijezd.gif" border=0 align=left ><B> Getting There </B> <CENTER><a href="fotos/clanky06/situ_rrgbig.gif" Target=_blank><IMG src="fotos/clanky06/situ_rrg.gif" border=0></a></CENTER> <CENTER><I><FONT color=braun> Situ of the area (hires) </FONT></I></CENTER> <center><i><font color=silver> drawings by © JirkaS </font></i></center> The Red is located in rural Kentucky, which makes it close to no major cities or airports. The closest international airport is Louisville, about a two hour drive west. Lexington is the closest domestic airport and is about an hour west of the Red. <IMG src="fotos/clanky/minilogo_klima.gif" border=0 align=left ><B> When </B> The best seasons to visit the Red are Fall and Spring. October seems to be the best month of the year with bright foliage and crisp tempatures. Expect at least two days of rain per week in the Spring, but you can easily enough escape the rain at one of the many steep crags. <center><img src="fotos/fil_2318.jpg" border=0></center> <center><I><font color=braun> Way down yonder, in that there hollar be some clif scailin'.</font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver> foto by© Andrew Burgoon </font></i></center> <IMG src="fotos/clanky/minilogo_mapa.gif" border=0 align=left ><B> Topos </B> Ray Ellington's <b><a href=http://www.redriverclimbing.com target=_blank>Guide book</a></b> sets a new standard for guides the world over. Great color photos, route descriptions, and detailed frontal pictures of the crags help you get aquianted with the area. On top of this, 20% of the profits from sales of the book go to the <b><a href=http://www.rrgcc.org target=_blank>Red River Climbers Coalition</b></a>, a local organization that helps secure access to crags on private land. For shorter visits one can use the free online topo available at <b><a href=http://www.DrTopo.com/ target=_blank> Dr. Topo</a></b>, which describes only the most popular areas. <IMG src="fotos/clanky/minilogo_camp.gif" border=0 align=left ><B> Camping </B> There are several campgrounds in and around the Red, but the only place you, as a climber, need to know about is Miguel’s. Miguel’s has been a mainstay of Red river climbing since its inception, and for good reason. For two dollars a night you get a place to camp in the field behind his pizza shop, access to a covered kitchen area, running water and sinks, a basketball hoop, slackline, wireless internet, and a small shack to watch movies and play video games in on rainy days. You will also find nightly campfires here where you can spray to your hearts content about your latest project. You can get a shower for $1.50, and of course dine on Miguel’s famous pizza. it is also situated right in the middle of all the climbing. If you are looking for a quieter camping experience, <b><a href=http://www.lagolinda.com/ target=_blank> Lago Linda’s</a></b> is the place to be. For five dollars a night you can camp on her huge ranch, which includes several miles of hiking trails and a small lake. The facilities here will be a little cleaner, and nights quiter. Linda’s is located close to the Motherlode and other areas south of the Gorge propper. <IMG src="fotos/clanky/minilogo_pumpa.gif" border=0 align=left ><B> Eats </B> Living in Kentucky is cheap. The closest supermarket is twelve miles west of Slade in Stanton. Krogers offers a full selection with great prices, and if you get the free discount card, it’s even cheaper. You can also find several fast food joints in Stanton as well…but why would you do that? Miguel’s Pizza is a climbers dream....Miguel makes his own pizzas by hand, and even grows a lot of the ingredients himself. The toppings are endless- what ever you could think of- Miguel has it. Besides being the tastiest food in the area, it is also the cheapest; You can get a half a pizza for about six bucks. They also serve omelets in the morning, and good salads, pasta, and rice dishes- all for about four bucks a meal. <b><a href=http://www.redriveroutdoors.com/ target=_blank> Red River Outdoors</a></b> is the place to eat breakfast at the Gorge, with a quirky menu that climbers are sure to love. For about five buck you can have a full plate and free internet as well! <B> Drinks </B> Perhaps the only disapointment at the Red. Please note that Slade is in a dry county, which means no alcohol is to be had near by. If you want cheap, watery amercican beer you can get it a few miles south in Torrent at the beer trailor. If you want liquor, wine, or beer that taste like beer you will have to go all the way to Winchester, about a thirty minute drive. The drink of choice at the Red is a locally made ginger ale, called <b><a href=http://www.ale8one.com/ target=_blank> Ale-8-one</a></b>. It is delicious and somehow addicting. <center><img src="fotos/fil_2335.jpg" border=0></center> <center><I><font color=braun> The Red isn't just for profi climbers. Moderate sport and trad lines abound. Here Steve Blye Takes in Moonbeam,5.9+, on a beautiful autumn day. </font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver> foto by© Andrew Burgoon </font></i></center> <B> Gear </B> The main attraction of the Red is hard sport climbing; all you really need is shoes, harness, rope, and a set of draws. Many popular harder routes already have draws hanging on them. A sixty meter rope will do for most routes here, save those enduro classics in the Madness cave. Another useful piece of gear is a stick clip, as many routes here have high first bolts and poor landings. Remember that the Red has as much Trad climbing as it does sport, so bring your rack if you are interested. It is as good as any trad area I have been to for single pitch routes. If you are in need Miguel’s offers a full selection of shoes, ropes, and gear. <center><img src="fotos/fil_2333.jpg" border=0></center> <center><I><font color=braun> All you single ladies out there get a load of this hunk. Hunkasaurous- Sweet Valley High material. He comes with a warm, free bed in his motorhome right next to the crags...</font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver> foto by© Andrew Burgoon </font></i></center>
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