Czech Climbing

CZECH CLIMBING

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	Books

Na trh přišla kniha o horách a řekách Dobrodružství v prášku
Vyšlo 2. vydání průvodce pro bouldering v Divoké Šárce v Praze
Křest Perel východu a video ze Stránské skály


	Competitions

SP rychlost Polsko (05.07)
SP obtížnost, rychlost Chamonix (FRA) (11.07)
SP rychlost Klagenfurt (AUT) (26.07)


	Ranking

Cesty:
1.Šindel 12747
2.Votoček 12650
3.Trojan 12234

Bouldry:
1.Volf 11503
2.Konečný 11275
3.Novák 10900

Hory:
1.Groš 7968
2.Rojko 7592
3.Skopec 7324


	Results

SP boulder, obtížnost Innsbruck (AUT) (25.06)
SP boulder Praha (CZE) (06.06)
Melloblocco (07.05)


	Diary

5752 lezců
1165091 cest

Nové přelezy:
Back On St 9/9+
Nagano 7C
Scarred Fo 8a+
Power Of N 8B+
Muttertag 8A
Scarred Fo 8a+
Nie Diät 9-
Götterhämm 9+
Longcalibu 9
Nie Diät 9-


	Indoors

Gutovka - Lezecké centrum ve Strašnicích - Praha 10
Pankrác, SPŠ stavební Josefa Gočára - Praha 4
KLAJDA - lezecké centrum Brno - Brno - Maloměřice


	Shops

Keen Concept Store - Futurum Ostrava - Ostrava 1
Lezec-shop.cz - Štěchovice
Rock Point Outlet Store - Praha 5 - Radotín


	Contact

REDAKCE:
standa

lezec.cz
ŠÉFREDAKTOR:
jirkas

lezec.cz
INZERCE:
standa

lezec.cz
IT:
hop

lezec.cz

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Brief <img src=fotos/fil_2398.jpg border=0 align=right> If you are a sport climber at heart, surely you have come across this situation: beautiful route, high first bolt, bad landing. Maybe you were too scared to climb up and clip it yourself; maybe you didn’t want to assume the risk of a ground fall. Or maybe you decided to go for it, and you bared down hard on every hold and locker off every move until you clip that first bolt, wasting precious energy for the send.
Text Although I have been sport climbing seriously for the past two years, in my heart I have an affinity towards trad climbing. Ethics debates aside, I find it thrilling. So when I showed up at the Red River Gorge- an area where the stick clip is commonly used- I thought, “God, what pussies.” It was only when I had a conversation with my friend Ed- who had broken his back a couple of year ago in a fall before the first bolt- that I understood the reasoning behind it. At sixty four, he has recovered from that injury and is climbing as hard as me- forty years his junior. Ed put it very aptly, “Look, this is sport climbing: if you want to prove how brave you are, go trad climbing. Sport climbing isn’t about how brave you are; It’s about how hard you can climb- that’s why there’s fucking bolts in the first place.” True, I thought. And perhaps this sanitizes the sport, taking all the risk out of it. But that’s the point of sport climbing, so have fun with it. With this in mind, I would like to introduce you to a cheap, easy way to construct your own stick clip. I believe Tom Grundy owns the dirt-bag patent on this little number, which means that anytime anyone makes one they must make an offering up to Jamba in his name- may the health food store dumpsters always be overflowing where ever he may be, lordhavemercy. This clip is made from household materials and costs very little. Not surprisingly it is also the best clip I have used, because it is fairly stiff, yet can be bent to accomodate weird angles that sometimes make it difficult to clip. A picture worth thousand words: the following do-it-yourself guide illustrates the various steps to making your own stick clip. <H3> The How To </H3> <center><img src="fotos/fil_2399.jpg" border=0></center> <center><I><font color=black>Have you ever watched McGiver? Yeah- it's kinda like that. What you need: a wire coat hanger, plyers, and a wire cutter- this pair does both. </font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver> foto by © Andrew Burgoon </font></i></center> <center><img src="fotos/fil_2400.jpg" border=0></center> <center><I><font color=black> Cut both ends, so you are left with just the strait part of the hanger</font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver> foto by © Andrew Burgoon </font></i></center> <center><img src="fotos/fil_2401.jpg" border=0></center> <center><I><font color=Black> Now begin bending the wire. Start with the U shaped basket that will hold the carabiner open. </font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver> foto by © Andrew Burgoon </font></i></center> <center><img src="fotos/fil_2402.jpg" border=0></center> <center><I><font color=Black> The second bend takes the wire down to the part that will support the bottom of the carabiner.</font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver> foto by © Andrew Burgoon </font></i></center> <center><img src="fotos/fil_2403.jpg" border=0></center> <center><I><font color=black> This is the first bend that creates the cradle that the carabiner sits in.</font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver> foto by © Andrew Burgoon </font></i></center> <center><img src="fotos/fil_2404.jpg" border=0></center> <center><I><font color=black> continuing to form the cradle...</font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver> foto by © Andrew Burgoon </font></i></center> <center><img src="fotos/fil_2405.jpg" border=0></center> <center><I><font color=black> once the cradle is formed, bend the wire down again to form the shaft that will be connected to the stick of choice. </font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver> foto by © Andrew Burgoon </font></i></center> <center><img src="fotos/fil_2406.jpg" border=0></center> <center><I><font color=black>This is how the biner should sit in the device. But you are not finished yet; tailor the bends to better fit your biner. </font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver> foto by © Andrew Burgoon </font></i></center> <center><img src="fotos/fil_2407.jpg" border=0></center> <center><I><font color=black> The finished product: notice on this model how the top holder and bottom cradle are on opposite sides of the down bar that connects them. This is for greater torsion control and handling around tight corners. Of course, the last step, not shown here, is to connect this device to a stick. </font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver> foto by © Andrew Burgoon </font></i></center> And there you have it! your very own stick clip.
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