Czech Climbing

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	Books

Na trh přišla kniha o horách a řekách Dobrodružství v prášku
Vyšlo 2. vydání průvodce pro bouldering v Divoké Šárce v Praze
Křest Perel východu a video ze Stránské skály


	Competitions

SP rychlost Polsko (05.07)
SP obtížnost, rychlost Chamonix (FRA) (11.07)
SP rychlost Klagenfurt (AUT) (26.07)


	Ranking

Cesty:
1.Šindel 12747
2.Votoček 12650
3.Trojan 12234

Bouldry:
1.Volf 11503
2.Konečný 11275
3.Novák 10900

Hory:
1.Groš 7968
2.Rojko 7592
3.Skopec 7324


	Results

SP boulder, obtížnost Innsbruck (AUT) (25.06)
SP boulder Praha (CZE) (06.06)
Melloblocco (07.05)


	Diary

5752 lezců
1165091 cest

Nové přelezy:
Back On St 9/9+
Nagano 7C
Scarred Fo 8a+
Power Of N 8B+
Muttertag 8A
Scarred Fo 8a+
Nie Diät 9-
Götterhämm 9+
Longcalibu 9
Nie Diät 9-


	Indoors

ZŠ Chřibská - Chřibská
Horolezecká stěna Vrchlabí - MANGO - Vrchlabí
HARLEM - Ústí nad Labem


	Shops

Green sport - Brno
Rock Point Hradec Králové - Hradec Králové
ALPI SPORT CENTRUM - Příbor


	Contact

REDAKCE:
standa

lezec.cz
ŠÉFREDAKTOR:
jirkas

lezec.cz
INZERCE:
standa

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IT:
hop

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Brief <img src=fotos/clanky07/c070412_.jpg border=0 align=right>We received a message about new route in Buttermilks called Mandala Direct.
Text As everybody knows Mandala, which is probably one of the most widely known boulder problems in the world and is situated in Buttermilks, Bishop CA and was first climbed by Chris Sharma in early 2000. The problem climbs a steep prow on a large granite boulder and was considered a cool project for many years already before Chris Shatma did it. Although Chris did not rate it was thought by many to be hard V14. Over time the grading was settled at soft <b><FONT color=#990000>V12/8A+</FONT></b> (Since the first ascent, several holds have broken including one of the crux holds.) It was given a sit-start by <b><FONT color=#990000>Tony Lamiche</FONT></b> in 2002. The sit-start, got the name <b><FONT color=#990000>The Mandalion</FONT></b> is about V14/8B+. Something was still missing. Since the direction of original Mandala was slightly to the left Jeff Sillcox tried to add a straight up. Here you can see some picture from the ascent. Recently Paul Robinson added a sitstart to it and made it even harder. Jeff called it <b><FONT color=#990000>Mandala Direct</FONT></b> and thinks that it’s hard <b><FONT color=#990000>V12</FONT></b>. <center><img src="fotos/clanky07/c070412a.jpg" border=0></center> <center><I><font color=braun>Jeff and Mandala Direct, V12 </font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver> foto by © </font></i></center> <center><img src="fotos/clanky07/c070412b.jpg" border=0></center> <center><I><font color=braun> Jeff and Mandala Direct, V12</font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver> foto by © </font></i></center> <center><img src="fotos/clanky07/c070412c.jpg" border=0></center> <center><I><font color=braun> Jeff and Mandala Direct, V12</font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver> foto by © </font></i></center> <center><img src="fotos/clanky07/c070412d.jpg" border=0></center> <center><I><font color=braun> Jeff and Mandala Direct, V12</font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver> foto by © </font></i></center> <center><img src="fotos/clanky07/c070412e.jpg" border=0></center> <center><I><font color=braun> Jeff and Mandala Direct, V12</font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver> foto by © </font></i></center> <center><img src="fotos/clanky07/c070412f.jpg" border=0></center> <center><I><font color=braun> Jeff and Mandala Direct, V12</font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver> foto by © </font></i></center> <center><img src="fotos/clanky07/c070412g.jpg" border=0></center> <center><I><font color=braun> Jeff and Mandala Direct, V12</font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver> foto by © </font></i></center> <center><img src="fotos/clanky07/c070412h.jpg" border=0></center> <center><I><font color=braun> Jeff and Mandala Direct, V12</font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver> foto by © </font></i></center> <center><img src="fotos/clanky07/c070412i.jpg" border=0></center> <center><I><font color=braun> Jeff and Mandala Direct, V12</font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver> foto by © </font></i></center> <center><img src="fotos/clanky07/c070412j.jpg" border=0></center> <center><I><font color=braun> Andy (support) and Jeff Red Rocks </font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver> foto by © JirkaS </font></i></center>
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