Czech Climbing

CZECH CLIMBING

SHOP

Registration | 55.439 vistors in November


	Books

Na trh přišla kniha o horách a řekách Dobrodružství v prášku
Vyšlo 2. vydání průvodce pro bouldering v Divoké Šárce v Praze
Křest Perel východu a video ze Stránské skály


	Competitions

SP rychlost Polsko (05.07)
SP obtížnost, rychlost Chamonix (FRA) (11.07)
SP rychlost Klagenfurt (AUT) (26.07)


	Ranking

Cesty:
1.Šindel 12747
2.Votoček 12650
3.Trojan 12234

Bouldry:
1.Volf 11503
2.Konečný 11275
3.Novák 10900

Hory:
1.Groš 7968
2.Rojko 7592
3.Skopec 7324


	Results

SP boulder, obtížnost Innsbruck (AUT) (25.06)
SP boulder Praha (CZE) (06.06)
Melloblocco (07.05)


	Diary

5752 lezců
1165091 cest

Nové přelezy:
Back On St 9/9+
Nagano 7C
Scarred Fo 8a+
Power Of N 8B+
Muttertag 8A
Scarred Fo 8a+
Nie Diät 9-
Götterhämm 9+
Longcalibu 9
Nie Diät 9-


	Indoors

Fitpark - Uhříněves
ZŠ Jihlava - Jihlava
Sportcentrum Evropská - Stěna FTVS UK - Praha 6


	Shops

HUDYsport - Jihlava
Husky Outdoor Shop - Plzeň
HUDYsport - Jablonec nad Nisou


	Contact

REDAKCE:
standa

lezec.cz
ŠÉFREDAKTOR:
jirkas

lezec.cz
INZERCE:
standa

lezec.cz
IT:
hop

lezec.cz

Insert / edit article

Author	Email
Password
Title	Subtitle
Category
Brief <img src=fotos/clanky07/c071219_.jpg border=0 align=right>On one of the last couple weekends there was the annual climbing meeting in the cave of the Macocha Gorge, in the Moravian Karst, in the east of the Czech Republic. The abyss is about 140m deep, and the aid routes there are more than 80m overhanging. About ten climbing teams came to climb there this season.
Text The routes <b>Priklepovy strop</b>, <b>Pavouci site</b> and the new route from the year 2006 <b>Dlouha noc</b> were tried and also a new route was put up. The only route that was not tried this season was <b>Americke hratky</b>. The whole action was made possible only because of the help of Brno climber Pavel Weisser, who arranged the permit with local authorities, because climbing there is under regulation of the preservation and is possible only by permition. The other reason is that Macocha is an internationally famous touristic attraction, and during the day it is full of tourists, so climbing is only possible when it is closed to the public. (Fot more beta about it ask by email via the admins of this site.) <center><img src="fotos/clanky07/c071219x.jpg" border=0></center> <center><I><font color=braun> The lines of the routes </font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver></font></i></center> <h4> Basic beta about the routes: </h4> <b><FONT color=#990000>Klenba (Cope) </FONT></b> - <i>L. Palenicek, V. Pipal, J. Unger, H. Myslivcova, 1970</i> original grade <b><FONT color=#990000>V+A2e</FONT></b>, today up to <b><FONT color=#990000>A2</FONT></b> The first route in the cave, which today you can climb it with your own pitons, the original bolts from the first ascent are out of order. <b><FONT color=#990000>Elektricky strop (The Electric Roof)</FONT></b> - <i>L.Palenicek, P. Fadrny, J. Benes, L. Benesova 1972</i> the original grade <b><FONT color=#990000>V+A3e</FONT></b>, today up to <b><FONT color=#990000>A2</FONT></b>, during the first ascent they used a power drill. The 2nd route in the cave was originally a lot of bolt ladders, but today a lot of bolts are broken and the climbing is via sky hooks, tiny pitons, partly exchanged, and the belaying positions equipped. One of the more demanding routes here. <b><FONT color=#990000>Priklepovy strop (The Hammerdriller Roof)</FONT></b> – <i>P. Weisser, I. Straka, J. Nespor, M. Smid 1986</i>, the original grade <b><FONT color=#990000>V+A3, Ae</FONT></b> The 3rd route in the cave. A power drill was used during the first ascent. This route waited a very long time for an entire repetition to the top. It was quite often climbed only in the first part to the cave. It was repeated to the top only in recent years. The cruxes are over not very secure pitons and there is relatively a lot of free climbing in the upper part. There are several lose blocks along the route, which must be delt with carefully. The original bolts were somewhere very bad, so they were replaced. <CENTER><a href="fotos/clanky07/c071219nbig.jpg" Target=_blank><IMG src="fotos/clanky07/c071219n.jpg" border=0></a></CENTER> <CENTER><I><FONT color=braun> Topo of the route Priklepovy strop (hi res)</FONT></I></CENTER> <center><i><font color=silver> </font></i></center> <b><FONT color=#990000>Pavouci site (The Spiders Webs) </FONT></b> – <i>P. Weisser, P. Brych, 1986</i>, the original grade <b><FONT color=#990000>VA3</FONT></b>, today up to <b><FONT color=#990000>A1</FONT></b> The easiest route in the cave. The first two pitches are the same as the route Klenba. The route continues directly via the center of the roof via bolts to the edge of the cave. Above the cave there are two relatively interesting pitches of climbing. The route is a bit complicated for route finding and the last part can make troubles to less experienced climbers. <b><FONT color=#990000>Zimni kralovstvi (Winter Kingdom)</FONT></b> – <i>P. Weisser, V. Pipal, I. Steflicek, K. Krecbach 1987</i> the original grade <b><FONT color=#990000>V+A3</FONT></b>, today up to <b><FONT color=#990000>A2</FONT></b> This route is partly rebolted, the entire repetition is not known. <b><FONT color=#990000>Americke hratky (American Games)</FONT></b> – <i>P. Weisser, M. Lidinec 1997 and 1999</i>, <b><FONT color=#990000>VA4</FONT></b> The route was originally climbed with start after the first pitch of the route Priklepovy strop in 1997. Two years later the authors came back and climbed the firsts two independent pitches, where especially on the first one the dangerous fall on the rocks bellow threatens. The route has had only 4 ascents. It is the hardest aid route in Macocha. The last unrepeated line was the route <b><FONT color=#990000>Dlouha noc (Long Night)</FONT></b> <i> set up in 2005 and 2006 by P. Weisser and R. Juracka.</i> The suggested classification was <b><FONT color=#990000>VA2</FONT></b> and the route was this season firstly repeated by J. Bednarik, C.Fojt and V.Satava. There are several places of hard piton climbing, but also free runouts sometimes on damaged broken rock. There ara also some new projects in the cave. Stoupa Dusan Janak ands P.Vrtik worked on the wall directly above the plateau for tourists. And there is also a new project by P.Weisser and R.Juracka in the left part of the cave. Btw. the first route from the bottom of the Macocha Gorge was climbed in 1946, „Spodek Macochy“ (The Bottom of Macocha) by F. Plsek, B. Kynera and H. Pavlovsky. The route leads on the right from the cope itself and was repeated minimally, the old pitons in the route are so bad, that they are not acceptable for climbing now. <b>Equipment for climbing in the cave of Macocha: </b> <li>Halogen lights for night climbing above the space for the visitors (climbing can not impact the opening hours for tourist visitors of the cave, touristic circuit leads under the roof) <li>Equipment according to the demands of the route, that means about - 10 to 30 pitons + especial 1,2,3 sets of friends, nuts, sky hooks, <li>Good aiders, chair for belayer <li>Good head lamp <li>To be sure a single 80 m rope is best, for the assistence to haul bag etc. 60 m of half rope. The absolute necessity is a fixed static rope 70 m in minimum in case of emergency. Rescue from outside is in some places not possible!!! <b>The formal necessities for climbing in the wall of Macocha: </b> Climbing is possible only with permit with the list of climbers names. The approval permit is managed by the local authorities P.Weisser or V. Wolf. The usual term is December. (For contacts ask the admins of czechclimbing.com - look at contacts at the lower part of the left column) Radek Lienerth <i>Translated by CzechClimbing.com team</i> <IMG src="fotos/clanky/minilogo_www.gif" border=0 align=left><b>Source: </b> More photos on <b><A HREF=http://www.climbingschool.cz Target =_blank>Climb On</A></b> and also on <b><A HREF=http://blue.pavoucek.cz Target =_blank>Blue Site</A></b> Wikipedia: <b><A HREF=http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Macocha_Gorge Target =_blank>Macocha Gorge</A></b> <center><img src="fotos/clanky07/c071219a.jpg" border=0></center> <center><I><font color=braun> At the last pitches of Priklep strop </font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver> photo by © M. Nezerka </font></i></center> <center><img src="fotos/clanky07/c071219b.jpg" border=0></center> <center><I><font color=braun> The cav of Macocha </font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver> photo by © M. Nežerka </font></i></center> <center><img src="fotos/clanky07/c071219c.jpg" border=0></center> <center><I><font color=braun> Tha last pitches of the Priklepovy strop after snowing </font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver> photo by © M. Nezerka </font></i></center> <center><img src="fotos/clanky07/c071219d.jpg" border=0></center> <center><I><font color=braun> Lukas in the beginning of the first pitch of Priklepovy strop </font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver> photo by © R. Lienerth </font></i></center> <center><img src="fotos/clanky07/c071219e.jpg" border=0></center> <center><I><font color=braun> Climbing in Priklepovy strop </font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver> photo by © R. Lienerth </font></i></center> <center><img src="fotos/clanky07/c071219f.jpg" border=0></center> <center><I><font color=braun> Belayer´s boardom </font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver> photo by © R. Lienerth </font></i></center> <center><img src="fotos/clanky07/c071219g.jpg" border=0></center> <center><I><font color=braun> The way back to the ground </font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver> photo by © R. Lienerth </font></i></center> <center><img src="fotos/clanky07/c071219h.jpg" border=0></center> <center><I><font color=braun> In the 3rd pitch of the Priklepovy strop </font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver> photo by © R. Lienerth </font></i></center> <center><img src="fotos/clanky07/c071219i.jpg" border=0></center> <center><I><font color=braun> The key pitch of Priklepovy strop, originally A3</font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver> photo by © T.Lenc </font></i></center> <center><img src="fotos/clanky07/c071219j.jpg" border=0></center> <center><I><font color=braun> The line of Priklepovy strop in the cope </font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver> photo by © M. Nežerka </font></i></center> <center><img src="fotos/clanky07/c071219k.jpg" border=0></center> <center><I><font color=braun> In Pavouci site </font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver> photo by © R. Lienerth </font></i></center> <center><img src="fotos/clanky07/c071219l.jpg" border=0></center> <center><I><font color=braun> The variant of the 4th pitch of Americke hratky</font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver> photo by © R. Lienerth </font></i></center> <center><img src="fotos/clanky07/c071219m.jpg" border=0></center> <center><I><font color=braun> The beginning of Klenba, Pavouci site and Elektricky strop </font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver> photo by © R. Lienerth </font></i></center> Map: <center> <iframe width="425" height="350" frameborder="0" scrolling="no" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" src="http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&time=&date=&ttype=&q=Macocha,+Czech+Republic&sll=49.870028,19.236871&sspn=0.009487,0.020084&ie=UTF8&ll=50.247205,17.270508&spn=4.907649,10.283203&z=7&iwloc=addr&om=1&output=embed&s=AARTsJpF5METNft-0Vi_CkFe8ulKl8epZg"></iframe> </center> <small><a href="http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&time=&date=&ttype=&q=Macocha,+Czech+Republic&sll=49.870028,19.236871&sspn=0.009487,0.020084&ie=UTF8&ll=50.247205,17.270508&spn=4.907649,10.283203&z=7&iwloc=addr&om=1&source=embed" style="color:#0000FF;text-align:left">View Larger Map</a></small>
maps loading ...

I agree to the processing of personal data.

Reklama:


	Photo of the day:

Údolní cesta, Nos


	Routes:

All routes (184856)
Top routes in CR
Top boulders in CR

Latest routes
Power Of Now 8B+ Magic Wood
Scarred For Life Stand 8a+ Fionnay
Kinglajno 9-/9 Blázon
Ressaca 6b+ Peniche
Flaschenhals VI Oybin

Latest comments:
Bienvenue Au Georges V 6a+ Envers Des Aiguilles
Kinglajno 9-/9 Blázon
Manganaou 8a Rue Des Masques
Danke Für Alles 7+ Frankenjura
Stínová Spára VIIa Horní Skály


	New in discussion:


	Latest comments:


	Hot:

Youth European Championship in climbing (4)


	New in advertising:

Climbing Partner | Looking for a climbing partner | route setters |


	Instructions:

Climbing map


	...

Energy Cloud NetPro systems, s.r.o.