Czech Climbing

CZECH CLIMBING

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	Books

Na trh přišla kniha o horách a řekách Dobrodružství v prášku
Vyšlo 2. vydání průvodce pro bouldering v Divoké Šárce v Praze
Křest Perel východu a video ze Stránské skály


	Competitions

SP rychlost Polsko (05.07)
SP obtížnost, rychlost Chamonix (FRA) (11.07)
SP rychlost Klagenfurt (AUT) (26.07)


	Ranking

Cesty:
1.Šindel 12747
2.Votoček 12650
3.Trojan 12234

Bouldry:
1.Volf 11503
2.Konečný 11275
3.Novák 10900

Hory:
1.Groš 7968
2.Rojko 7592
3.Skopec 7324


	Results

SP boulder, obtížnost Innsbruck (AUT) (25.06)
SP boulder Praha (CZE) (06.06)
Melloblocco (07.05)


	Diary

5752 lezců
1165091 cest

Nové přelezy:
Back On St 9/9+
Nagano 7C
Scarred Fo 8a+
Power Of N 8B+
Muttertag 8A
Scarred Fo 8a+
Nie Diät 9-
Götterhämm 9+
Longcalibu 9
Nie Diät 9-


	Indoors

V 16 - Plzeň
Rock 'n' Wall - Plzeň
Boulder Bar - Praha 7


	Shops

LANEX eshop - Bolatice
Lezec-shop.cz - Štěchovice
Rock Point OC Olympia - Brno


	Contact

REDAKCE:
standa

lezec.cz
ŠÉFREDAKTOR:
jirkas

lezec.cz
INZERCE:
standa

lezec.cz
IT:
hop

lezec.cz

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Brief (obrp)3559(/obrp)Finally after two years we managed to set out to on a spring climbing warming up. The decision was by all votes for Spain.
Text During the journey we stopped for first warm up and to split the travel a bit in St. Legere. We met there as usual (Czech elite girl climber, but almost local) Misa Drlikova with her friend Roman. In the night the temperature was well below zero, around minus five, but during the day in the sun it was perfect. Only the very wet routes damaged the impression. So we spent there only two days and hurrah we went on to warm and dry Spain. The first choice was the area of 9as and the hard routes in an overhanging cave - St.Linya. Up to now we counted one 9a+, and further 20 routes between 9a and 8c. (obrc)3560(/obrc) <center><I><font color=braun>St. Linya</font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver>photo by Helca Lipenska</font></i></center> The easier routes here are mostly shorter, more bouldery and quite rare. The most of the hard routes and popular ones in the area were made by Dani Andrada, who lives in Lleida which is not far. This year communication with him was much much easier because he has a Slovak girlfriend Andrejka. Of course we visited Dani's climbing nest, where we discovered a pleasant flat full of climbing pictures, guides, and beta about his secret training hints. One could say that St.Linea is now under the cannonade of all of the best climbers. Climbing there has a distinct athletic character, that means overhanging routes via stalactites and crimps, but old style moves via finger holes and often also boulder via mono finger are not missing. The weather was not very good, the nights were very cold again, and the mornings were dark and unpleasant. In 6 climbing days the sun shined twice. So we went for wood, set up fire in the cave, heated small stones and before trying a route we put them to chalkbag and to warm up we ran via the path. It worked quite, but frankly no fairy tale. We met also other Czech climbers there. Adam Ondra with a group of climbers from Brno. After a couple days we had hands suffering from stalactites and our bodies needed some change. So we moved 30 km to Terradets. It is an area of 8as, the routes are for endurance, 30 metres long, and slightly or medium overhanging. (obrc)3561(/obrc) <center><I><font color=braun>Terradets</font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver>photo by Helca Lipenska</font></i></center> (obrc)3562(/obrc) <center><I><font color=braun>Terradets</font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver>photo by Helca Lipenska</font></i></center> It is an ideal winter aera, the best is when you will arrive by plane to Barcelona, and by train via Lleidu directly to the train station where is a Refugio, which costs 12,5 euros per person. It is about 20 minutes to the rocks by walk from here. Even here we met Czech friends, Tomas Strnad with his girlfriend Petra. The cold weather was there again, after two weeks we had troubles with regeneration, so we moved to the refugio. It returned us some energy and we could continue in quality climbing. But the weather was still bad- even colder, raining and windy. The routes were wet and at the last stop in spain there was even snow. So we had to shorten the trip by 14 nights. In winter the trip for two weeks is ideal time, we recommend longer only if there is really warm weather. We were satisfied overall. We warmed up well, gain motivation for the further rocks trips and we have other big plans for this year. So we hope, that with better weather and conditions, the performance will come of itself. Tomas climbed: 8c+ PP – 7x. 8c PP- 3x. 8c Flash – 1x. 8b OS – 4x. Helena: 8a PP a 7c+ OS, 7c+ PP. <i>(Translated by CzechClimbing.team from the Czech original on <b><a href=http://tomasmrazek.cz/clanek.php?id=219 target=_blank>www.tomasmrazek.cz</a></b>, where you can find a lot of other photoos from the trip.)</i> The Diaries on CzechClimbing.com: <b><a href=denik.php?parn=2&uid=746d72617a656bh&ckat=2&crok=9992 target=_blank>Diary - Mrazek Tomas (tmrazek)</a></b> <b><a href=denik.php?parn=2&uid=48656ce8614c2eh&ckat=2&crok=9992 target=_blank>Diary - Lipenska Helena (HelcaL.)</a></b>
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