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Czech Climbing

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	Books

Ostaš Bouldertopo 2026: nové vydání + spuštěný předprodej
Slovenské průvodce
Vyšla nejnovější kniha Reinholda Messnera Symboly


	Competitions

SP Bern (22.05)
SP Madrid (28.05)
SP Praha (04.06)


	Ranking

Cesty:
1.Šindel 12928
2.Votoček 12750
3.Širůčková 11897

Bouldry:
1.Ondra 11434
2.Volf 11328
3.Trojan 11200

Hory:
1.Sejbal 8201
2.Groš 7924
3.Skopec 7183


	Results

ČP v lezení na obtížnost Brno (25.04)
Petrohradské Padání (24.04)
MČR v ledolezení na obtížnost (07.03)


	Diary

5928 lezců
1221702 cest

Nové přelezy:
Drakunda 8+/9-
Skleroza 7b+
Auswärtssp 8+/9-
Nullkomman 9+/10-
Triebwerke 10
Les Beaufs 7b
Hydraulika 7C
Halloween Xc
Bumerang 9+
Člověk Bez XIa


	Indoors

Eliass - Ostrava
Loděnice FTVS - Praha 7
Sportcentrum Forea - Lanškroun


	Shops

HUDYsport - Praha 5
Rock Point - OC Nisa - Liberec
Rock Point Olomouc - Olomouc


	Contact

REDAKCE:
standa

lezec.cz
ŠÉFREDAKTOR:
jirkas

lezec.cz
INZERCE:
standa

lezec.cz
IT:
hop

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Brief (obrp)3747(/obrp)When Petzl released its Reverso belay device several years ago it was a novel design. Its primary innovation was combining the ability to function as an auto-block device while belaying two seconds directly off a belay point, with the ability to also belay the leader and rapel in the same device. A multifunctional tool that saved weight on long routes, and a great all around problem solving tool for rope systems. Problem was that the action of two of these functions- belaying the leader and rappelling, leaved much to be desired.
Text <center><img src="fotos/fil_3748.jpg" border=0></center> <center><I><font color=braun> Belaying the leader with the reverso 3 is fast and smooth, yet provides enough braking power for hangdogging sessions.</font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver> foto by © Andrew Burgoon </font></i></center> The first generation of Reverso had two major flaws: firstly it did not provide a very smooth rope feed for the lead climber, secondly it’s edges wore away when rapeling into frighteningly sharp points. Nobody in their right mind would use it as a sport climbing belay, it was simply too slow. So it’s usefulness was limited to easy routes in the mountains. <center><img src="fotos/fil_3749.jpg" border=0></center> <center><I><font color=braun> Thanks to a new design, the reverso now has breaking grooves, which dramitically improve the durability and breaking power with a wide range of rope diameters.</font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver> foto by © Andrew Burgoon </font></i></center> The Second generation of the Reverso alleviated the problem with the wear points, but not the sticky belay of the leader. Again, a novel idea with sub-par function. <center><img src="fotos/fil_3750.jpg" border=0></center> <center><I><font color=braun> Reverso 3 shown in Autoblock function for belaying the follower(s).</font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver> foto by © Andrew Burgoon </font></i></center> Petzl scrapped the old design for the Reverso 3, but kept the basic functioning concepts. What they produced looks more like a regular tube belay device than the old model. Finally in it’s third incarnation, Petzl got everything right. Belaying the leader is as smooth as any device you will find on the market, with enough friction for long hang-dogging sessions and skinny cords. Gone are the days of sharpened edges, the brake point on the new model is built to last. Of course, it still provides the function of auto-blocking while belaying one or two seconds directly off an anchor. New this year, they added a key whole where you can place a carabiner (all Petzl ‘biners and most other brands we tried fit) to release the autoblock with even pressure, in the event the second should fall. <center><img src="fotos/fil_3751.jpg" border=0></center> <center><I><font color=braun> You can put a carabiner in this hole to serve as a lever to release the autoblock, if the second should fall. Belay carabiner omitted for clairity.</font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver> foto by © Andrew Burgoon </font></i></center> Overall, the Petzl Reverso 3 is an outstanding tool, capable both in the mountains and at your local sport crag- it handles each of it’s three functions with aplomb.
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