Czech Climbing

CZECH CLIMBING

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	Books

Na trh přišla kniha o horách a řekách Dobrodružství v prášku
Vyšlo 2. vydání průvodce pro bouldering v Divoké Šárce v Praze
Křest Perel východu a video ze Stránské skály


	Competitions

SP rychlost Polsko (05.07)
SP obtížnost, rychlost Chamonix (FRA) (11.07)
SP rychlost Klagenfurt (AUT) (26.07)


	Ranking

Cesty:
1.Šindel 12747
2.Votoček 12650
3.Trojan 12234

Bouldry:
1.Volf 11503
2.Konečný 11275
3.Novák 10900

Hory:
1.Groš 7968
2.Rojko 7592
3.Skopec 7324


	Results

SP boulder, obtížnost Innsbruck (AUT) (25.06)
SP boulder Praha (CZE) (06.06)
Melloblocco (07.05)


	Diary

5752 lezců
1165091 cest

Nové přelezy:
Back On St 9/9+
Nagano 7C
Scarred Fo 8a+
Power Of N 8B+
Muttertag 8A
Scarred Fo 8a+
Nie Diät 9-
Götterhämm 9+
Longcalibu 9
Nie Diät 9-


	Indoors

Lezecké centrum SmíchOFF - Praha 5
Boulder Bar - Praha 7
SAUNA - Plzeň


	Shops

Outdoor Centrum Rock Point Masarykova - Brno
Outdoor Centrum Rock Point Poříčí - Praha 1
LANEX eshop - Bolatice


	Contact

REDAKCE:
standa

lezec.cz
ŠÉFREDAKTOR:
jirkas

lezec.cz
INZERCE:
standa

lezec.cz
IT:
hop

lezec.cz

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Brief <IMG src="fotos/clanky08/c080708_.jpg" align=right border=0> Here we have some user tests concerning Edelrid Zap-O-Mat.
Text The Zap-O-Mat is a hybrid tuber unit which features an integrated a moving bolt to control the level of friction. The Zap-O-Mat is designed for a soft and dynamic belaying regardless of rope thickness. <CENTER><IMG src="fotos/clanky08/c080708a.jpg" border=0></CENTER> <CENTER><I><FONT color=braun>Edelrid Zap-O-Mat belay device</FONT></I></CENTER> <center><i><font color=silver>photo by © Edelrid </font></i></center> The first impression is that it looks a little bit like a toy, but all the important parts are made from metal and even the plastic lever is fortified with a metal core. By pushing the black button the device is opened and a rope loop can easily be placed into it (a small pictogram is on the side, which helps to find proper direction). <CENTER><IMG src="fotos/clanky08/c080708b.jpg" border=0></CENTER> <CENTER><I><FONT color=braun> Opening of Zap – O - Mat</FONT></I></CENTER> <center><i><font color=silver>photo by © Edelrid </font></i></center> <CENTER><IMG src="fotos/clanky08/c080708c.jpg" border=0></CENTER> <CENTER><I><FONT color=braun> Putting a rope loop into it </FONT></I></CENTER> <center><i><font color=silver>photo by © JirkaS</font></i></center> <CENTER><IMG src="fotos/clanky08/c080708d.jpg" border=0></CENTER> <CENTER><I><FONT color=braun> Closing of Zap – O - Mat </FONT></I></CENTER> <center><i><font color=silver>foto by © JirkaS</font></i></center> <CENTER><IMG src="fotos/clanky08/c080708e.jpg" border=0></CENTER> <CENTER><I><FONT color=braun>Ready for belaying</FONT></I></CENTER> <center><i><font color=silver>photo by © JirkaS</font></i></center> <CENTER><IMG src="fotos/clanky08/c080708f.jpg" border=0></CENTER> <CENTER><I><FONT color=braun>Locking position </FONT></I></CENTER> <center><i><font color=silver>photo by © JirkaS</font></i></center> The way you put the rope into Zap O Mat is similar to tube belay device and finally the loop is hooked round the bolt. Then you close it by clicking the device and you are ready to belay. Quite quick and you don't have to unclip the device from your harness. Belaying is provided with an adjustable bolt, which has two positions due to a loaded spring in the handle. When you push the green <b>"spring load"</b> button in the rope can run smoothly for on sight or red point attempts. On the other hand by releasing the spring by pushing the button on the bottom side of the handle, the central bolt moves easily and the rope in Zap-O-Mat blocks much easily- good for new belayers, skinny ropes, and hangdogging sessions. When using a new rope it is very smooth. The rope goes smoothly without the tendency of self locking. Pressing the spring load button is the first precondition when you use an older rope. When lowering, the integrated karabiner arrester prevents the unit from being pushed too far thus increasing the braking power. Lowering is rather slow which does no harm, but at certain point of pressing the handle the adjustable bolt shifts quickly into new stable position and it creates a small but not very pleasant bump. For ropes from <b>8.9 mm</b> to <b>10.5 mm</b>, weight is about <b>158 g</b>. <CENTER><a href="fotos/clanky08/c080708xbig.jpg" Target=_blank><IMG src="fotos/clanky08/c080708g.jpg" border=0></a></CENTER> <CENTER><I><FONT color=braun> Device description (hi res) </FONT></I></CENTER> <center><i><font color=silver>photo by © JirkaS </font></i></center> <hr> <h4>Conclusion:</h4> The Zap O Mat has very clever design, is light and effective with a high level of safety. Though the use of plastic and plastic buttons is certainly a detractor. -------------------------------------------------------------- <b><FONT color=grass green>Pros</FONT></b> <li>+ easy to use <li>+ weight 158 g <li>+ you can leave it clipped while putting in a rope -------------------------------------------------------------- <b><FONT color=#990000>Cons</FONT></b> <li>- plastic part <li>- slow lowering, with sudden bump -------------------------------------------------------------- <IMG src="fotos/clanky08/c080708h.jpg" border=0> <IMG src="fotos/clanky/minilogo_www.gif" border=0 align=left><b>Source: </b> For more info and to see the whole production look at <b><A HREF=http://www.edelrid.de Target=_blank>Edelrid</A></b>
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