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Czech Climbing

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Cesty:
1.Šindel 12928
2.Votoček 12750
3.Širůčková 11897

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1.Ondra 11434
2.Volf 11328
3.Trojan 11200

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3.Skopec 7183


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ČP v lezení na obtížnost Brno (25.04)
Petrohradské Padání (24.04)
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5928 lezců
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Drakunda 8+/9-
Skleroza 7b+
Auswärtssp 8+/9-
Nullkomman 9+/10-
Triebwerke 10
Les Beaufs 7b
Hydraulika 7C
Halloween Xc
Bumerang 9+
Člověk Bez XIa


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Lezecká stěna Kbely - Praha 9 – Kbely
Big Wall - Praha 9 - Vysočany
Boulder Bar - Praha 7


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Outdoor Centrum Rock Point Perštýn - Praha 1
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Brief (obrp)5217(/obrp)Adam Ondra had a successful vacation in Spain, despite that the weather didnt cooperate as much he collected several remarkable sends.
Text In Friday evening I am packed and waiting. Waiting for the trip with the best world climber Adam Ondra. In time. ... The driver is Adam´s mother Eva, Kubo Kovacik, Slovak young friend sit in the rear. The 14 hours long journey to French Seynes is in front of us. From there the next destination is 450km away Oliana in Spain. We traveled via Seynes (just a short stop) to be there just one day. It was very hot day, the temperature raised up to 38°C. Sektor Nouveau Monde Right was our target. Kubo Kovacik dried <b><FONT color=#990000>Le Dinosaure 8a+</FONT></b>. Was still very hot, Adam was going to try two chosen routes for OnSight. The first was <b><FONT color=#990000>Les Légendes Du Gard 8b/b+</FONT></b> and the second <b><FONT color=#990000>Metaphysique Des Tubes 8c</FONT></b>. All climbers from the area came to see Adams triumph ride. By the evening we continued to Spain to brand new area Oliana. In the morning we set out to the walk to the wall. It is superb and the bolting works on it are still on - mostly by Dani Andrada with Chris and Victor Fernandez. (obrc)5205(/obrc) <center><I><font color=braun> Adam in route Papichulo, 9a+ </font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver> photo by © Vojtech Vrzba </font></i></center> (obrc)5206(/obrc) <center><I><font color=braun> Adam in route Papichulo, 9a+ </font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver> photo by © Vojtěch Vrzba </font></i></center> (obrc)5207(/obrc) <center><I><font color=braun> Adam in route Papichulo, 9a+ </font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver> photo by © Vojtěch Vrzba </font></i></center> Adam goes with Kubo to one worm up, quite hard 7b, and then he studies his target – Papichulo 9a+. Just from the bush smiling Chris and Daila and the other climbers come. Adam climbs the first attempt, cleans the route and clips missing quick draws. There is a fog and Spaniards heat themselves at fire place. Adam does two other tries and finishes in the crux boulder problem. Chris tries the new project <b><FONT color=#990000>Mama Chichi</FONT></b> (perhaps 9a+) and according his words it would take more time to do it ... We look at elegant moves of Daila Ojeda in route <b><FONT color=#990000>China Crisis 8b+</FONT></b>. As a cool down Adam does OS <b><FONT color=#990000>Project De Carles 8b+</FONT></b>. The next day we have plan for rest day in less known area <b>Perles</b>. There is many easier routes and one photogenic 9a on the edge of big overhang. Eva climbs we others enjoy sun and relax mainly Adam who still has diarrhea for the 5th day. (obrc)5208(/obrc) <center><I><font color=braun> Lucka Hrozova in route 7a </font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver> photo by © Vojtech Vrzba </font></i></center> (obrc)5210(/obrc) <center><I><font color=braun> Kubo Kovacik in route Marroncita, 8b/b+ </font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver> photo by © Vojtech Vrzba </font></i></center> (obrc)5209(/obrc) <center><I><font color=braun> Ala in route Marroncita, 8b/b+ </font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver> photo by © Vojtech Vrzba </font></i></center> On the evening we met in Oliana with a Czech friend Ala. On morning the sky is clean and we expect a hot day. May be for that Adam does not wait and he sends Papichulo in the first try. ... Adam in the afternoon does OS 20 meters snake <b><FONT color=#990000>Los Humildes Pa Casa 8c</FONT></b>. On the evening we move to the next area Santa Linya. The climbers there are in the cave around fire place. Adam goes to check the start of his next task – <b><FONT color=#990000>Directa Open Your Mind 9a/a+</FONT></b> - it looks dry. (obrc)5211(/obrc) <center><I><font color=braun> Oliana, Spain </font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver> photo by © Eva Ondrová </font></i></center> (obrc)5212(/obrc) <center><I><font color=braun> Adam prays for better weather </font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver> photo by © Ala Rozsypal </font></i></center> (obrc)5213(/obrc) <center><I><font color=braun> Santa Linya, Spain </font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver> photo by © Vojtěch Vrzba </font></i></center> Morning Adams climbs classics for warm up and than the first clipping attempt. Again cleaning, trying the moves etc. Under sun the cave change in the hot malting pot. With the sunset it begins to be acceptable. So therefore Adam has three attempts for each day. Two in the morning and one in late afternoon. This scenario continues 4 days, Adam falls or in the bottom bouldery part (8c+) or slips on the 2nd part "only" for 8b+. It is quite hard because his health state is not perfect. On Sunday Tomas Mrazek and Helena Lipenska come. The day Adam falls in the last hard move of the entire route (foot slip) and has decided we have to go AWAY! For couple days to rest from stereotype ... - Margalef...the ideal selection. I have to leave by plane to Prague. (obrc)5214(/obrc) <center><I><font color=braun> Open your mind direct, 9a+ </font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver> photo by © Vojtech Vrzba </font></i></center> (obrc)5215(/obrc) <center><I><font color=braun> Open your mind direct, 9a+ </font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver> photo by © Vojtech Vrzba </font></i></center> (obrc)5216(/obrc) <center><I><font color=braun> Open your mind direct, 9a+ </font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver> photo by © Vojtech Vrzba </font></i></center> „Weather worsens, it rains two days, and also snow ... Adam falls in Margalef in the last move in 9a... we have bad luck!“ I got similar news about the conditions ... So tha last send Adam did in Spain was <b><FONT color=#990000>L´Espiadimonis 8c</FONT></b> OS in Margalef. The "Open your mind direct" 9a+ is still Adam´s project, and the last work was for famous „BigUp Production“ camera to repete RP send of Papichulo in Oliana. It should appear in the new film „Progression“. I look forward to it! <IMG src="fotos/clanky/minilogo_www.gif" border=0 align=left><b>More:</b> <b><A HREF=http://www.tomala.cz/vojta Target =_blank>More photo</A></b> <b><A HREF=http://www.lezec.cz/denik.php?uid=6469707379h&par=0&crok=9992&ckat=2 Target =_blank>Adams latest sends </A></b> <i>(Short translation by CzechClimbing.com team)</i>
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