Czech Climbing

CZECH CLIMBING

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	Books

Na trh přišla kniha o horách a řekách Dobrodružství v prášku
Vyšlo 2. vydání průvodce pro bouldering v Divoké Šárce v Praze
Křest Perel východu a video ze Stránské skály


	Competitions

SP rychlost Polsko (05.07)
SP obtížnost, rychlost Chamonix (FRA) (11.07)
SP rychlost Klagenfurt (AUT) (26.07)


	Ranking

Cesty:
1.Šindel 12747
2.Votoček 12650
3.Trojan 12234

Bouldry:
1.Volf 11503
2.Konečný 11275
3.Novák 10900

Hory:
1.Groš 7968
2.Rojko 7592
3.Skopec 7324


	Results

SP boulder, obtížnost Innsbruck (AUT) (25.06)
SP boulder Praha (CZE) (06.06)
Melloblocco (07.05)


	Diary

5752 lezců
1165091 cest

Nové přelezy:
Back On St 9/9+
Nagano 7C
Scarred Fo 8a+
Power Of N 8B+
Muttertag 8A
Scarred Fo 8a+
Nie Diät 9-
Götterhämm 9+
Longcalibu 9
Nie Diät 9-


	Indoors

Bouldercafe stěna už neexistuje - Plzeň
Družba boulder - Ostrava Poruba
Eset Centrum - Praha 2


	Shops

Popina = nejlevnější v ČR ! - Bruntál
Namche - Outdoor, Travel & Climbinig Center, s.r.o. - Praha 8
bart´s port - Praha 2


	Contact

REDAKCE:
standa

lezec.cz
ŠÉFREDAKTOR:
jirkas

lezec.cz
INZERCE:
standa

lezec.cz
IT:
hop

lezec.cz

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Brief <img src=fotos/clanky09/c090620_.jpg border=0 align=right>Africa has always been called the Dark Continent. Since early times explorers have come back with tales of its wild beauty. Africa most certainly has its share of problems, but on the other hand it is an explorer’s paradise. Is there rock in Africa?
Text There most certainly is, tons of virgin rock. There is so much rock that it if a climber were to be given an unrelenting supply bolts and a drill, he could spend the rest of his days opening thousands of classic sport climbs and still not dent the surface. There are ample big walls in remote locations, with strange people and even stranger customs that stare at you as much as you are staring at them. For those who love the short and intense, there is so much bouldering you would not believe your eyes. On the road to Rocklands you pass thousands of great untouched boulders for over 40 min drive before reaching the campsite. In addition to this there are lots of other large boulder fields climbed only by Baboons and Dassies (small rabbit like creatures). <center><img src="fotos/clanky09/c090620a.jpg" border=0></center> <center><I><font color=braun> Candice on Headology 7c, Magnetic Wall, Shongweni. </font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver> Photo by © Micky Wiswedel </font></i></center> In South Africa there has been a lot of development over the last 20 years. A small core of hardcore climbers in each of the main provinces began developing crags. Others joined forces and up to date we have over 70 major sport climbing areas and over 20 major bouldering areas. There are <b>12 main</b> sport and bouldering areas developed. These include: <b><FONT color=#990000>west of Johannesburg, east of Pretoria, Waterval Boven</FONT></b>, around <b><FONT color=#990000>Cape Town</FONT></b>, near <b><FONT color=#990000>Du Toit’s Kloof, Shongweni, Kloof Gorge</FONT></b>, near <b><FONT color=#990000>Harrismith</FONT></b>, around <b><FONT color=#990000>Port Elizabeth, Montagu, Oudtshoorn</FONT></b> and <b><FONT color=#990000>Rocklands</FONT></b>. Our biggest sport area in South Africa is <b><FONT color=#990000>Waterval Boven</FONT></b> where we have nearly 700 lines. <center><img src="fotos/clanky09/c090620b.jpg" border=0></center> <center><I><font color=braun> Andrew Pedley ascending Lab Rat 8b+ Waterval Boven. </font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver> Photo by © Gustav Janse Van Rensburg </font></i></center> <center><img src="fotos/clanky09/c090620c.jpg" border=0></center> <center><I><font color=braun> Jimbo on Short Circuit 8a+ at Oudsthoorn</font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver> Photo by © Justin Lawson </font></i></center> Rocklands</FONT></b> of course is already famous as a world class bouldering area. <center><img src="fotos/clanky09/c090620d.jpg" border=0></center> <center><I><font color=braun> Evan Wang on Green Mamba 8b at the Cedar Rouge sector Rocklands </font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver> Photo by © Micky Wiswedel</font></i></center> Along with these there are many other less well known areas. Most of the climbing is on hard sandstone or quartzite. There are about <b><FONT color=#990000>5000</FONT></b> climbers here, about <b><FONT color=#990000>1000</FONT></b> of which climb seriously. In each region most of the sport climbers know each other and there is a great vibe amongst them. This is mainly due to a number of national rock climbing festivals that occur throughout the year. Hundreds of climbers all gather together in climbing campsites to climb and enjoy themselves. We have a fairly strict climbing ethic with regards to chipping, major tree/plant removal, and the disturbance of Raptors. We don’t entertain extremes such as; coloured chalk, no chalk, no gear (but rope slings only), bolts only placed on lead etc. There has been conflict (forum bashing) with regards to bolting in climbing areas recognised as trad only. This has largely been resolved with numerous trad climbing areas such as <b><FONT color=#990000>Table Mountain, the Magaliesburg</FONT></b> (near Johannesburg) and <b><FONT color=#990000>Monteseel</FONT></b> (near Durban) being kept bolt free so that the traditionalists can enjoy placing their cams and nuts in peace. <center><img src="fotos/clanky09/c090620e.jpg" border=0></center> <center><I><font color=braun> On the first pitch of Oddshouters Outing 6a+ Trad </font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver> Photo by © Jason Orton </font></i></center> Most of southern Africa is semi-desert with much lower rainfall than other northern hemisphere climbing regions. In fact, most of the climbers, particularly in the more Northern and Eastern regions of the country never consider the weather report when planning a climbing trip. They just assume it will be perfect weather, and it normally is. It can be a bit hot in summer with spectacular thunderstorms in the late afternoons. These are best viewed from the car and not while still at the crags. Winter can bring rain to Cape Town, but a few hours north of there, it is much dryer. <center><img src="fotos/clanky09/c090620f.jpg" border=0></center> <center><I><font color=braun> Heike Schmitt on the summit of Wellington’s Dome, Limpopo Province </font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver> Photo by © Neil Margetts </font></i></center> In South Africa we have also a fast growing school, inter-varsity, and National bouldering leagues as well as a number of other individual climbing competitions. From the 15 July to the 2 August this year <b><FONT color=#990000>Adam Ondra</FONT></b> and his dad Miroslav will be testing out some of the hardest African test pieces on a tour to South Africa. They will be climbing alongside the best in SA on the PETZL Rock and Road Trip. Adam will then travel to Oudtshoorn and to Rocklands. <IMG src="fotos/clanky/minilogo_www.gif" border=0 align=left><b>Source: </b> Log onto, which will be updated daily to follow his trip. <b><A HREF=http://www.rockandroad.co.za Target =_blank>Rockandroad.co.za</A></b>
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Power Of Now 8B+ Magic Wood
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Flaschenhals VI Oybin

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