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Czech Climbing

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SP Madrid (28.05)
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Cesty:
1.Šindel 12928
2.Votoček 12750
3.Širůčková 11897

Bouldry:
1.Ondra 11434
2.Volf 11328
3.Trojan 11200

Hory:
1.Sejbal 8201
2.Groš 7924
3.Skopec 7183


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ČP v lezení na obtížnost Brno (25.04)
Petrohradské Padání (24.04)
MČR v ledolezení na obtížnost (07.03)


	Diary

5928 lezců
1221702 cest

Nové přelezy:
Drakunda 8+/9-
Skleroza 7b+
Auswärtssp 8+/9-
Nullkomman 9+/10-
Triebwerke 10
Les Beaufs 7b
Hydraulika 7C
Halloween Xc
Bumerang 9+
Člověk Bez XIa


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SOU technického - Frýdek-Místek
Boulder bar Točna - Jihlava
FreeSolo - Lezecká stěna - Praha


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Mapis - mapové informační středisko - Praha 5
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REDAKCE:
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lezec.cz
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lezec.cz
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IT:
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Brief (obrp)6175(/obrp)A 35metres long, extremely overhanging route - called Marina Superstar (extension of existing route Marina 8c/c+) was bolted by Matteo Marini, is situated in sector "Bronx" near Domusnovas vilage about 40kms from Cagliari.
Text Adam tried this project last year already. It starts as a 8b+ pitch in 45 degrees overhang, then it continues over 4 quickdraws to another chain (8c/c+) and after that, without any rests, comes a boulder problem of 7C+ Fr in nearly vertical roof to an edge of the cave. Several hard moves with heelhooks and one good resthold and comes another boulder problem on the edge of the cave - going from horizontal roof to a vertical wall. The difference between last bolt and the chain is approximately 6 metres! Adam Ondra sent this route on Tuesday evening after 4 days of working on it. During his tries there were broken two tufas in the roof, where he could rest a bit so he had to change the sequence as well and was obliged to use wet tufa and match on it too! (obrc)6176(/obrc) <center><I><font color=braun>Adam in hardest spot </font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver> photo by © Vojtěch Vrzba </font></i></center> That made probably the "slash" in the grade of the route. Adam was thinking about the grade for couple of days to say the final verdict - 9a+/b. During his stay in Sardinia he managed to make first ascents of another hard routes in sectors Bronx (Death Row 8c+) and in Ruota del Tempo (The Voice 8c+). In the meantime he had onsinghted seven routes from 8a to 8b. (obrc)6177(/obrc) <center><I><font color=braun> The Cave </font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver> photo by © Vojtěch Vrzba </font></i></center> Further photos at www.climb4fun.cz
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