Czech Climbing - Insert / edit article

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Czech Climbing

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	Books

Ostaš Bouldertopo 2026: nové vydání + spuštěný předprodej
Slovenské průvodce
Vyšla nejnovější kniha Reinholda Messnera Symboly


	Competitions

SP Bern (22.05)
SP Madrid (28.05)
SP Praha (04.06)


	Ranking

Cesty:
1.Šindel 12928
2.Votoček 12750
3.Širůčková 11897

Bouldry:
1.Ondra 11434
2.Volf 11328
3.Trojan 11200

Hory:
1.Sejbal 8201
2.Groš 7924
3.Skopec 7183


	Results

ČP v lezení na obtížnost Brno (25.04)
Petrohradské Padání (24.04)
MČR v ledolezení na obtížnost (07.03)


	Diary

5928 lezců
1221702 cest

Nové přelezy:
Drakunda 8+/9-
Skleroza 7b+
Auswärtssp 8+/9-
Nullkomman 9+/10-
Triebwerke 10
Les Beaufs 7b
Hydraulika 7C
Halloween Xc
Bumerang 9+
Člověk Bez XIa


	Indoors

ZŠ Jihlava - Jihlava
Boulder Hluchák - Šumperk
Hannah Outdoor Centrum - lezení v ledu - !stěna zbourána! - Tanvaldský Špičák II


	Shops

HUDYsport - Karlovy Vary
HUDYsport - Strakonice
NěcoNavíc.cz - České Budějovice


	Contact

REDAKCE:
standa

lezec.cz
ŠÉFREDAKTOR:
jirkas

lezec.cz
INZERCE:
standa

lezec.cz
IT:
hop

Insert / edit article

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Brief (obrp)6899(/obrp)Every time Adam Ondra has climbed a difficult route, I thought that it would be worthwhile to do an interview. But it happens very often:) So how was it this time with "Golpe de Estado - Adam's first-9b, which he climbed two weeks ago in Siurana?
Text <b> When did you decide that you were going to try "Golpe de Estado </b> Basically, I made it a goal after „Marina Superstar“, just to compared the difficulty. This mission was long and difficult, but it paid off. <b> You needed 29 attempts to repeat the line. It indicates that this route is “hardcore"! What gave you the hardest time... stamina, bouldery cruxes… </b> The biggest problem for me were the typically long „Sharma“ moves. These are dynamic reaches when one never knows. Even the strongest climber is not sure and easily misses the hold he is aiming for: the two-finger pocket or crimp. You have to just jump confident and hope that you stay on the rock. (obrc)6897(/obrc) <center><I><font color=braun>Adam Ondra- Golpe de Estado 9b, Siurana, Spain</font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver>foto Pete O´Donovan</font></i></center> <b> Could you describe Golpe de Estado </b> There is an easy start, then 4 meters of quite hard climbing, a poor rest in the hole, and then comes the 4 meter crux, which is finished with a jump (or long move), where you feel that your hands will pull apart. Then it comes a bad rest again (it could be 9a+), and than there is a finish of Estado Critico (this part alone is probably hard 8c). Overall it is about 35 or 40 meters of climbing. <b> I don’t know Spanish, but the translation I have for Golpe de Estado is a coup. Do you know if Chris Sharma and Daily Ojeda are getting ready for something in Spain? Do you know anything about this? </b> I do not know if they are getting ready for something, but I think the name symbolizes the fighting spirit and in this route you must give it everything. Otherwise, Chris and Daila should be already in the U.S. (in Red River Gorge) and they will return in May. (obrc)6887(/obrc) <center><I><font color=braun>sectors Siuranella central-left and-right El Patio </font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver>foto by Eva Ondrová</font></i></center> <b> Golpe de estado was freed by Chris Sharma at the end of 2008. The route goes via a direct start to Estado critico. As always Chris hesitated with a grade, than he proposed 9b, which he compares to the Jumbo Love at Clark Mountain in the U.S. Cedric Lachat broke the resting hold in Estado Critico this winter, which is the first part of the Golpe de Estado. First, I wonder what it looks like such a resting hold in 9b and then, if the breaking made a such a different in a grade</b> Just to clarify a bit. The hold was not a resting jug, but it helped. Before Estado Critico was more of an endurance problem, now there is a definite crux (but for Golpe it is not the crux). Estado Critico is now significantly harder, from 8c+ to 9a. Golpe de Estado is harder just a little. I had been really worried about this move, but the move itself felt easier while linking than normally while working. But I fell one more time even higher. If Chris had had doubts about the classification, so now it's surely at least 9b. <b> I read that your ascents were accompanied by strong wind and freezing weather, for which you once fell just below the chain. It must be mentally demanding. How do you get over it? </b> Not well. I have to believe, but sometimes it is really difficult. I was probably more nervous now than at the comps, where at least I do not know a route. Here I know it very well and I always have a few moves, which I afraid of and I afraid of them even in a dream. <b>What come on your mind after the climb? </b> Mix of relief and great joy. Freedom and relief. <b>A month ago you injured your finger in Margalef in route Demencia senil 9a+ . Will you avoid routes with one or two-finger pockets now and is your season in Frankenjura compromised? </b> I definitely won’t miss this season in the Frankenjura. It is not a finger pockets as a finger pockets. In hard routes in Frankenjura the holds are usually so small and you usually take them more like a small crimp, which is safer for tendon. Besides that, there are not usually in sequence. In Margalef they are all pockets bigger than phalanx, far from each other and without footholds. (obrc)6888(/obrc) <center><I><font color=braun>Siurana</font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver>foto by Eva Ondrová</font></i></center> <b> Do you have still enough routes in Frankenjura?</b> From routes harder than 9a, there is only one :-( But a drill is already impatient. <b> There is a list unrepeated 9b: Akira, Es Pontas, Jumbo Love, Delincuente Natural, and Neanderthal. Are some of them already on your list? </b> It will keep it to myself. Place your bets. (obrc)6898(/obrc) <center><I><font color=braun>Adam Ondra </font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver>foto Pete O´Donovan</font></i></center> <b>The WC in lead are starting in July and last until November. Will you participate in all circuit and do you prepare yourself for comps? </b> I plan to participate in all comps in lead and in 5 in the boulder WC (7 total, the ranking counts 5). Bouldering season is short. It takes basically from mid May to early July, except for one comp in Munich in early August, so it can reasonably handle. Mainly on boulders I must improve climbing on slopers and double dynos. <b> I will not pry anymore. Thank you for the interview, I keep my fingers crossed for the next competition season and climbing, and especially no more injuries! </b> by Simona Ulmonova (obrc)6901(/obrc) <center><I><font color=braun>Adam Ondra- Golpe de Estado 9b, Siurana, Španělsko</font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver>foto Petr Pavlíček</font></i></center> (obrc)6902(/obrc) <center><I><font color=braun>Adam Ondra- Golpe de Estado 9b, Siurana, Španělsko</font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver>foto Petr Pavlíček</font></i></center> (obrc)6903(/obrc) <center><I><font color=braun>Adam Ondra- Golpe de Estado 9b, Siurana, Španělsko</font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver>foto Petr Pavlíček</font></i></center> <img src=fotos/clanky/minilogo_www.gif border=0 align=left> <b> Resources: </ b> <b> <a href=http://www.bernartwood.cz/ target=_blank> bernartwood.cz </ a> </ b>
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