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Srbsko: Prague Sport Climbing

limestone

smIf you are a climber, and you find yourself in Prague, you may be wondering about the possibilities of climbing outdoors.

No need to worry, you can simply follow the crowds on any given Spring or Summer weekend to Srbsko, a sport climbing area forty kilometers outside Prague on the Berounka River. Yes, this is a valued escape for Pragers, and you will no doubt be sharing the path to the cliffs with other climbers, mountain bikers, hikers, and anyone looking to escape the asphalt and incessant tram bells of the city streets.


A clear day and clean rock, Mobilis In Mobili 7+



The rock is limestone, with both natural and quarried sections.  I have only visited the natural cliffs; but if you are a beginner, the quarry offers many more possibilities.  Be warned that the limestone at Srbsko- seeing the high amount of traffic that it does- is very polished, nay, downright slippery.  If you are from other parts of Europe besides Germany, you may not be familiar with the plethora of bolts used to protect the routes.  Sandstone rings are common and, though they may look shady, they are generally very strong. 


Warming up on a cold spring morning, Levis Notae Macula 5




I haven’t done enough routes there to give recommendations, but I can personally say that there are good routes between the grades of 5 and 8+. I wouldn’t take anything less than a sixty meter rope, though you could find routes to do if you have a shorter one.  About ten to twelve quick draws is all you need, while on some of the more sporty routes you may wish to have a set of nuts. 


The quarry Alkazar atrracts even beginners, Standa and family enjoy a
fine day at the crags




At the other side of the climbing spectrum, Keson attempts a route
Fotogenicka 8+/9-, on the upper part of Pupek.





Nose like Pupek in the middle, quarry on the left


Beta:


Getting there:

The Berounka river valley is between Karlstein and the town of Beroun, one hour by train from Prague.  Take the train from Smichov to the village of Srbsko. Walk across the river along the bridge and turn left against the flow of the river 500 m. There begins a 500 m long range of crags in several separate areas. At the far end is the former quarry, Alkazar- which is where most of the easier routes are; the harder ones are mainly closer to the village Srbsko.

By car it is best to take the highway to Plzen (assuming you are coming from Prague) and at the junction to the village of Lodenice get off and get onto Svaty Jan pod Skalou to Hostim, then to the left and across the hill up and down to Srbsko village. In the center of the village near the river turn the right and park, e.g. near the camp in front of the football playground; it is a 5 min walk to the first crags.











Guides:

There is a guide available in print, though it is Czech and German only.





There is also a brief but excellent guide online at: www.czechclimbing.com/pruvodcx.php?key=81

Andrew Burgoon   [edit] 06:29 25.03.2005Print 

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Commentaries

     
...new commentsNew comment 

 Wavin' in the wind17:49:27 26.03.2005
Two questions:
1. Can you jump off the cliffs into the water?
2. The picture of you looks hot, but I'm curious...Are you pissing down your leg or into a drilled hole in wall?
Keep it up...enjoy yourself, and let me know all about the great quarry climbs....Seriously, let me know---I haven't climbed in months.
B-Widreply 
 Deep water soloing is not recommended12:48:48 04.04.2005
There is only shalow water and far from the cliff.
JirkaSreply 

 Spring Climbing18:06:38 27.03.2005
Looks like a great spot not too far from town.
Harvey Burgoonreply 

 Very well described12:50:44 04.04.2005
Hi Andy. I really enjoyed your article. Thanks.
JirkaSreply 
 Re: Very well described13:46:04 05.04.2005
Hi Jirka,
Thanks for the complement. We should get in touch about Petrohad.
Andrew Burgoonreply 

 nice14:46:00 09.04.2005
It looks really nice but I'm a bit worried about overflow. Are there often many climbers? Is any day from week so that there aren't too many people? Thanx everyone for answer.
K.reply 
 Re: nice14:35:18 11.04.2005
I think you can go there on weekdays and not have too much competition for routes.
andrewreply 
  Re: nice19:20:38 11.04.2005
Thanx a lot!
K.reply 

 Safty15:29:41 27.07.2016
Hi,
Does anybody know how the safty (bolts, anchors, etc) looks at the moment. I also want to ask what are the average bolt distances.

KR Mattias
Mattiasreply 
 Re: Safty12:57:48 15.11.2016
It is quite good and maintained. It is simmilar or just a little bit bolder then in German Frankenjura
 Standareply 

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