Czech Adam Ondra won the 5th annual of international opendoor bouldering competition „Melloblocco“ in Val Masino (northern Italy) this bridged weekend (8.5.-11.5.2008). The event attracted the record number of competitors: around 1500.
When Petzl released its Reverso belay device several years ago it was a novel design. Its primary innovation was combining the ability to function as an auto-block device while belaying two seconds directly off a belay point, with the ability to also belay the leader and rapel in the same device. A multifunctional tool that saved weight on long routes, and a great all around problem solving tool for rope systems. Problem was that the action of two of these func
The record in numbers of participants, super boulder problems, nice weather, excellent people, that was the 6th annual of Petrohradske padani, the international outdoor meeting-competition in bouldering on granite stones in Petrohrad, west Bohemia, Czech Republic.
Since we introduced the climbing diary to our readers, people thought that we were just resting on our laurels here at czechclimbing.com. But they guessed wrong.
Spring is finally here, it brings with it those beautiful clear, slightly breezy days where the air is warm but the stone is still cold. We here at czechclimbing/Lezec took advantage of such conditions and hit the rocks with three different models Ocun sent us: the Mojave, the Zeptor, and their latest model- the Twist. Read more about each below.
Czech mountaineering union approved chalk ban again
Czech Mountaineering union (CHS) organized the annual general assembly where the most discussed topic - the ban of chalk on Czech sandstone criticized by the majority of all Czech elite climbers - was approved again and chalk is still prohibited.
Adam Ondra came back from his trip to Spain with a collection of hard sends that shocked not only us. His impressive list of sends brings to question where exactly is the physical limit of climbing. Adam´s climbs indicate that it would be much farther than we think. We spoke with Adam not only about this topic, but other things interesting us as well.
Everyone knows that global warming is leading to the deterioration of the greatest Nordwands in the Alps. So last week a young team of German Alpinists went after the Eiger North Face like there is no tomorrow, climbing it about 10.30 hours. The team was composed of Lukas Binder, Fritz Miller, Florian Jehle and Michael Wohlleben, who provided us with the info and pics. More information to come so stay tuned...
Czech Adam Ondra won the 5th annual of international opendoor bouldering competition „Melloblocco“ in Val Masino (northern Italy) this bridged weekend (8.5.-11.5.2008). The event attracted the record number of competitors: around 1500.
Among women Barbara Zangerl (Austria) won, Giulia Gianmarco was 2nd and Jenny Lavarda was 3rd.
After Adam Ondra, who btw. climbed Antropos 8B, there were six competitors on the 2nd place: the Czech Tomas Mrazek, Michelle Caminati, Mauro Calibani, Guillaume Clairon-Mondet, Gabri Moroni and Balint Kamvas. The third was Patxi Usobiaga.
There were officially registered 1424 boulderers from 33 countries. "The most from Italy, than France and third from Republico Ceco!!!" Czech team coach Petr Resch wrote to the Czech version of this news on Lezec.cz/CzechClimbing.com. Altogether there were around 4000 people in the valley.
From Czech girls the best was Silva Rajfova, who gained 3 jockers, same as the German Marlene Graf who succeeded recently in Czech outdoor bouldering competition Padani in Petrohrad. The only the three women had more jockers.
The Czech boys dictated:
6 jockers - Adam Ondra
5 jockers - Tomas Mrazek and the other 5 people as mentioned above.
4 jockers - Martin Stranik and 3 more people
3 jockers - Martin Spilka, Vilda Chejn, Andrey Chrastina (Slovakian living Prague) and around 8 people more,
2 jockers - Rosta Stefanek and Richard Nyeki (Slovakia and quite a lot of other people
1 jocker by Jirka Lautner and Jirka Dlabola ...
"So that is the Czech bouldering on the world scene. Thanks to all for the excellent representation. A lot of our people have stayed in the area so I hope they will bring others scalps," Petr Resch wrote.
Registration
lezec.cz
Czech Adam Ondra won the 5th annual of international opendoor bouldering competition „Melloblocco“ in Val Masino (northern Italy) this bridged weekend (8.5.-11.5.2008). The event attracted the record number of competitors: around 1500.
When Petzl released its Reverso belay device several years ago it was a novel design. Its primary innovation was combining the ability to function as an auto-block device while belaying two seconds directly off a belay point, with the ability to also belay the leader and rapel in the same device. A multifunctional tool that saved weight on long routes, and a great all around problem solving tool for rope systems. Problem was that the action of two of these func
The record in numbers of participants, super boulder problems, nice weather, excellent people, that was the 6th annual of Petrohradske padani, the international outdoor meeting-competition in bouldering on granite stones in Petrohrad, west Bohemia, Czech Republic.
Since we introduced the climbing diary to our readers, people thought that we were just resting on our laurels here at czechclimbing.com. But they guessed wrong. 
Spring is finally here, it brings with it those beautiful clear, slightly breezy days where the air is warm but the stone is still cold. We here at czechclimbing/Lezec took advantage of such conditions and hit the rocks with three different models Ocun sent us: the Mojave, the Zeptor, and their latest model- the Twist. Read more about each below.
Hey, here we are, already for the sixth time. Brush, saw, chalk, paint, pencil, brush, saw, chalk, paint, pencil, …
Czech Mountaineering union (CHS) organized the annual general assembly where the most discussed topic - the ban of chalk on Czech sandstone criticized by the majority of all Czech elite climbers - was approved again and chalk is still prohibited.
Adam Ondra came back from his trip to Spain with a collection of hard sends that shocked not only us. His impressive list of sends brings to question where exactly is the physical limit of climbing. Adam´s climbs indicate that it would be much farther than we think. We spoke with Adam not only about this topic, but other things interesting us as well.
Finally after two years we managed to set out to on a spring climbing warming up. The decision was by all votes for Spain.
Everyone knows that global warming is leading to the deterioration of the greatest Nordwands in the Alps. So last week a young team of German Alpinists went after the Eiger North Face like there is no tomorrow, climbing it about 10.30 hours. The team was composed of Lukas Binder, Fritz Miller, Florian Jehle and Michael Wohlleben, who provided us with the info and pics. More information to come so stay tuned...
The sources: 
