Some of the most popular areas visited frequently by Czech climbers are just across the border. One of them is Ennstal- close to Linz, Austria- which is well know mostly by climbers from Souther Bohemia.

There are about 20 sub-areas with over 1000 sport routes from 3 to 10 UIAA on quality limestone in the valley of the river Enns in the beginning of the northern limestone Alps.


The river Enns and the limestones hills around
photo by © JirkaS


The really dominating  wall Pfennigsteinmauer offers top climbing on lines over 30 m long
photo by © JirkaS


drawing by © JirkaS

Directions:

The way is via Ceske Budejovice and then to Austria via Freistadt then along road  123 go directly to the Donau river to Mauthausen, or cross the river and further aim to Ennsdorf and then to bigger town Steyr.
Then you can reach the village of Losenstein, where from it is close to Laussa, where is some of the best climbing. From Laussa you can walk to the crags just there or to visit a nice wall Langenstein or in the opposite direction the rock  tower Sauzahn. in the hot weather you can from Losenstein cross the river Enns and drive up to the farm in the upper area Nixloch, 


Situ plan of the area
drawing by © JirkaS


Bivaque, camping, :

Wild camping is problematic there so the smooth solution is look at one of the three local camps e.g. www.camping-ennstal.at for 6,80 Euro/person/night. Or for another camping look at www.bauernhof.at/pfaffenlehen. (There are also a lot of pensions for 25–32 Euro/person/night in the area)


Climbing in sunny plates under the castle in Losenstein
photo by © JirkaS

Clima:

The area is good in the heat of the summer because some walls orientations and higher altitude and shade from the woods. The summer can offer also nice swimming in the clean river Enns.


Janys in the route Mosaik, 9-/9 in the area Rettenstein
photo by © JirkaS

The guides, maps, navigation:

Sources:

Probably the best and the only web site about climbing there with all cliffs in the valley on topos, and also beta about the entire Ennstal by Franz Bräuer, Georg Blasl, Mike Scharnreitner and Martin Weymayer in German: Klettern im Ennstal

The free topo for the Laussa crags was available to gain in restaurant there next to Sonnleitnerwand  (at least on the spring 2007).

The climbing book guide for Ennstal is quite old and a bit out of date. The area is also described in the overall Austrian climbing select Austria - Vertical.


Austria - Vertical


Food:

There are discount supermarkets Norma in Ternberg and in Lossensteinu.


The sings to the crags
foto by © JirkaS

Recommended climbing:

Sonnerleitnerwand - The strip of walls with a row of very nice routes. Good holds, slightly overhanging wall, about 40 routes to 8+ UIAA. North. Good for summer.

Riesenbergerwand - The other strip of the wall on the other side of valley. With anther dosage of nice routes on firm rock. North. Good for summer.

Langenstein - Smaller wall with mostly overhanging routes with sharps holds. You can climb there during rain.

Sauzahn - Excelent walls on the several towers. The firm rock with holes and crimps. The routes up to 8+ UIAA.

Nixloch - Spread area with a lot of sectors and routes in compact material, mainly smaller crimps. Located in higher altitude so good for summer.

Pfennigsteingebiet - The large massive behind Losenstein, with severla sectors. There are hard routes and really impressive walls. The best are walls Hackermauer a Pfennigsteinmauer. Especially the 2nd offers quite intensive experience from climbing in mostly longer and harder routes (7+ and more 25m and longer).

Rettenstein - The area only of local value./i>

Zapfl - Intersting climbing crag close to town Ternberg. .

Wolkerlmauer - High wall with a little bit alpine character climbing. Multi pitches routes in beautiful calm environment.

Steinwirt - Small klettergarten, only of local value, but just next the road. Parking on front of a pub, if you find free place.


Some walls are really nice - Hackermauer



Nixloch, climbing in route Schuppendach, 6+
photo by © JirkaS

Tip:
Sheltered outdoor artificial climbing wall is in Weyer.

Warning:
Be aware that it is the problematic area for wild camping.
Climbing route difficulty grading in Austria is quite respectable, may happen you will often sweat blood while climbing on officially easy graded route.


High walls in area Wolkerlmauer
photo by © JirkaS


Pfennigsteinmauer: JirkaS climbs the route Alte liebe, 8/8+
photo by © Standa


Artificial wall in Grossraming
photo by © JanaS


Sonnleitnerwand
photo by © JirkaS