World Cup competition in difficulty climbing, Brno, Czech Republic, 12-13/11/2004:
13.11. 19:00 - Resume: Flavio Crespi (ITA) and Alexandra Eyer (SUI) won today the World Cup competition in Brno, Czech Republic. The Czech favorit Tomas Mrazek was the 2nd and he keeps some advantage in ranking for Alexandre Chabot (FRA) who was 3rd. (Look at ICC ranking.)
In women: Olga Shalagina (UKR) was 2nd, Maja Vidmar (SLO) 3rd.
The Czech organizers war very satisfied: the ICC delegat Reinhard Leisnling and head of the jury Werner Gaechter talked about the Brno competition in superlatives. Competitiors were also very satisfied, there were no prostests and warm atmosphere with about 2000 visitors.
The last World Cup 2004 competition will take place in Kranj, Slovenia, next weekend.

Flavio Crespi (ITA) - the winner (Photo by Zofin)


Alexandra Eyer (SUI) - the winner (Photo by JirkaS)


Awarding ceremony - men


Awarding ceremony - women


Flavio Crespi - interview with the winner (Flavio - in yellow jacket)


Tomas Mrazek (CZE) in final
(Photos by JirkaS)


Alexandre Chabot (FRA)


Muriel Sarkany (BEL)


Angela Eiter (AUT)


Tomas Mrazek (CZE) in semifinal


Juraj Repcik (SVK)
(Photos by Zofin)

17:55  Full results

17:35 The winner Flavio Crespi expressed he is happy that he  wins World Cup for the first time and appreciated the great atmosphere in Brno.
The World Cup 2004 ranking leader Tomas Mrazek was also happy by his result. (He has not lost in World Cup and his rankink competitor Alexandre Chabot was behind him.)

17:26 Results:
1 Flavio Crespi (ITA), 2 Tomas Mrazek (CZE), 3 Alexandre Chabot (FRA), 4 Maksym Petrenko (UKR), 5 Bernardino Lagni (ITA), 6 Jorg Verhoeven (NED), 7 Silvain Millet (FRA), 8 Sangwon Son (KOR), 9 Luca Zardini (ITA)

17:19 Tomas Mrazek (CZE) 51+. He will be 2nd. So Crespi Flavio (ITA) wins. Alexandre Chabot (FRA) is 3rd.

17:13 Lagni Bernardino (ITA) 46-

17:05 Crespi Flavio (ITA) 55. He does nearly top, he is the best up to now.

16:53 Millet Silvain (FRA) 42+

16:47 Son Sangwon (KOR) 40


Son Sangwon - the final route

16:40 Zardini Luca (ITA) 37-


Zardini Luca - the final route

16:34 Chabot Alexandre (FRA) does a little bit further: 48+

16:26 Petrenko Maksym (UKR) reaches higher point: 47+

16:18 Verhoeven Jorg (NED) waves to the audiens at the 2/3 of the route and than reaches another two holdes and falls. He has 46- points.


Verhoeven Jorg - the final route of men

16:12 Verhoeven Jorg (NED) begins the men final route.

16:04 Observation of the men final route startes. The list of 9 finalist: Mrazek (CZE), Lagni (ITA), Crespi (ITA), Millet (FRA), Son (KOR), Zardini (ITA), Chabot (FRA), Petrenko (UKR), Verhoeven (NED).

15:55  Results final women

15:45 The jury confirmes: 1 Eyer Alexandra (SUI), 2 Shalagina Olga (UKR) 3 Vidmar Maja (SLO),
The others: 4 Eiter (AUT), 5 Sarkany (BEL), 6 Kobayashi (JPN), 7 Ciavaldini (FRA), 8 Ostapenko (UKR)

15:20 Unofficial result: Eyer Alexandra (SUI) wins, Shalagina Olga (UKR) should be 2nd, Vidmar Maja (SLO) 3rd. We wait for jury results.

15:18 Eiter Angela (AUT) 40

15:09 Sarkany Muriel (BEL) 40, just after she sais: supprised from the popularity in Czech R.,  thans to the audience for support.

15:02 Eyer Alexandra (SUI) 44- , she has at least the 3rd place. She said just after the performance: Atmosphere is great, just got problem with clipping...


Alexandra Eyer climbing the final route

14:56 Shalagina Olga (UKR) 41-
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14:51 Kobayashi Yuka (JPN) 40

14:44 Ciavaldini Caroline (FRA) 40-
The audience creates warm atmophere by asistance of the speaker Tomas Kysilka, from Brno (he is father of the Czech best competition climbing woman Tereza Kysilkova)

14:38 Vidmar Maja (SLO) reaches slighty more 40+

14:31 Ostapenko Alena (UKR) reached the uper parts of the wall. She reaches 39- points. The hall is full of people.

14:27 Alena Ostapenko starts her final route.

14:15 The women final route observation begins

14:00 Video of Tomas Mrazek in 1/2 final route (about 24 MB) and another one video of Christian Bindhamer (GER) and Yuka Kobayashi (JAP) (about 55 MB) also in 1/2 final. The videos are in Quick Time format.

13:00 Isolation closing.

12:00
 Results 1/2 final men
 Results 1/2 final women

11:40 The finalists:
men
Mrazek (CZE), Lagni (ITA), Crespi (ITA), Millet (FRA), Son (KOR), Zardini (ITA), Chabot (FRA), Petrenko (UKR), Verhoeven (NED).
women
Eiter (AUT), Sarkany (GEL), Shalagina (RUS), Eyer (SUI), Kobayashi (JAP), Ciavaldini (FRA), Vidmar Maja (SLO), Ostapenko (UKR).

11:30 We wait for the results of the 1/2 final. The men and women final starts at 14:30.

11:22 Sarkany (BEL) W 48

11:22 Mrazek (CZE) M top


Tomas Mrazek in 1/2 final route (Photo by Mike Jaeger)

11:15 Chabot (FRA) M 38-


Alexandre Chabot in 1/2 final route

11:14 Eiter (AUT) W top


Angela Eiter in 1/2 final route

11:09 Pouvreau (FRA) M 22-

11:07 Eyer (SUI) W 42-

11:04 Crespi (ITA) M 47-

11:00 Martin (FRA) W 38-

10:54 Levet (FRA) W 34

10:51 Usobiaga (ESP) M 22-

10:48 Shalagina (UKR) W 41+

10:47 Petrenko (UKR) M 37

10:43 Kim (KOR) W 41+

10:40 Millet (FRA) M 42-

10:38 Yeamurd (RUS) W 41-

10:35 Fuselier (FRA) M 31

10:32 Kobayashi (JPN) W 42-

10:30 Bindhammer Christian (GER) M 22

10:26 Verhoeven (NED) M 37

10:25 Kysilkova (CZE) W 28

10:22 Zardini (ITA) M 39-

10:21 Ciavaldini (FRA) W 42-

10:16 Lagni (ITA) M top, the 1st top up to now

10:15 Vidmar Katja (SLO) W 29-

10:11 Vidmar Maja (SLO) W 42, the best woman up to now

10:09 Repcik (SVK) M 28+

10:05 1/2 final continues


Juraj Repcik and Maja Vidmar - 1/2 routes

9:55 Bacher (AUT) W 40-
and short pause for holds cleaning starts.

9:49 Son (KOR) M 40-, the best man up to now

9:49 Lavarda (ITA) W 34-

9:43 Go (Kor) W 13+

9:43 Reis (AUT) M 21

9:40 Ostapenko (UKR) W 41+

9:39 Vinokur (USA) M 22+

9:36 Bindhammer Andreas M (GER) 21

9:35 Saurwein (AUT) W 34-

9:32 Droetto (ITA) M 29

9:30 Raffetseder (AUT) W 19-

9:26 Sova (SLO) M 22-


Matej Sova and Gerda Raffetseder on their 1/2 final routes. The men route is 8b, the woman route is 8a of Franche classification, (photo by Standa)

9:23 Kaurov (RUS) M 22-

9:22 Hrozova (CZE) W 28-

9:20 Julian Ramon Puigblanque (ESP) M 21

9:18 Kudrova (CZE) W 28-

9:16 Ovtchinnikov (RUS) M 28+

9:14 Cintalova Zuzana (SVK) W 25

9:12 Kim (Kor) M 30-

9:09 Lipenska (CZE) W 19

9:07 Fichtinger (AUT) M 21

9:05 Kugler (POL) W 13+

9:04 Valjavec (SLO) M 21-

9:04 - Cintalova Katarina (SVK) W 20 pts

9:03 Brenna (ITA) Men - climbes a couple metres further and has 21+ points.

9:02 - Chudobova (CZE) Women - falls at down part and has 20 points.

9:00 - Katerina Chudobova (CZE) and Christian Brenna (ITA) start to climb the 1/2 final routes.

8:45 - Observation starts



8:30 -  Start - list 1/2 final

8:00 - Isolation closing for 1/2 final round men and women. The 1/2 round will start at 9:00.

Record of the on line live news coverage from Friday 12.11.2004 it in this article.