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Category:
 Michi Wohlleben climbs two Multipitch 8a’s in one week
After a hard Expedition to the Himalayan Karakorum, Michi was able to send in autumn two difficult multipitch routes.
Commentaries (0)03.12.2009... full story
 Czech boulder pad recomanded by German Klettern magazine
Czech bouldering pad Ocún Paddy Dominator was recommended by German Klettern magazine. It published the results of editorial test of 19 different bouldering pads in its November issue.
Commentaries (0)26.11.2009... full story
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Czech Tomas Mrazek has climbed another 9a+ recently: the route Directa Open Your Mind 9a+ in Santa Linya, Spain.
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 Adam Ondra- the second ascent of Xaxid Hostel
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Commentaries (0)18.11.2009... full story
 World Cup in lead climbing Kranj (SLO) 2009
SP BrnoAdam Ondra wins the finals World Cup competition in lead climbing 2009 in Kranj, Slovenia and by this victory he gains 1st place in the overall World Cup series 2009.

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Men
1)Adam Ondra CZE
2)Sachi Amma JPN
3)Jakob Schubert AUT
Commentaries (0)15.11.2009... full story
 6th Smichov Festival of Alpinism: main guest Reinhold Massner
The 6th Smichov Festival of Alpinism takes place next weekend in Prague on November 20th–22nd 2009 and as the main guest Reinhold Massner will be presented there. The main foreign partner is South Tirol.
Commentaries (0)13.11.2009... full story
 Film documentary from World Cup in Brno on Czech TV
One hour documentary film from the finals of the World Cup competition in lead climbing in Brno, Czech Republic 2009 made by Czech Television has been posted on Internet.
Commentaries (0)12.11.2009... full story
 World Cup in lead climbing Brno, CZ: live stream
Five Czech climbers continue from today qualification to Saturday semifinals of the World Cup competition in lead climbing Brno, Czech Republic: Adam Ondra, Tomas Mrazek, Martin Stranik, Nelly Kudrova and Lucie Hrozova.

Commentaries (0)06.11.2009... full story
 World Cup in lead climbing in Brno is going to start
The preparations of the World Cup in lead climbing have finished tonight in Brno, Czech Republic. The competition starts on Friday morning during the outdoor fair Sport Life that has begun today.
Commentaries (0)05.11.2009... full story
 The World Cup lead climb competition wall under construction
Updated photos and info
We got several photos from construction of the forthcoming World Cup lead climbing competition wall. The competition starts on Friday 6th November in Brno exhibition center during the Sport Life outdoor equipment fair.
Commentaries (0)02.11.2009... full story
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Michi Wohlleben climbs two Multipitch 8a’s in one week

After a hard Expedition to the Himalayan Karakorum, Michi was able to send in autumn two difficult multipitch routes.

On Sunday 4th October, one day before his 19th Birthday, Michi made the first redpoint ascent of “Geht’s noch Doc?” in the Bavarian Alps near Tegernsee. The route was bolted three years ago by the Mountain Guides Peter Albert (www.steile-welt.de) and Michi Hofmann (www.rotpunktschule.de).
Peter and Michi Hofmann allowed Michi to try the route, because they had now three years time to send it.


Geht s noch Doc?,8a, 7c pitch

photo by © Hansi Heckmair


a
Geht s noch Doc?, 

photo by © Hansi Heckmair



Geht s noch Doc?, 8a

photo by © Hansi Heckmair



Geht s noch Doc?, 8a

photo by © Hansi Heckmair



On Saturday the 3rd October, Michi already sent the 8a pitch, a quite technical and crimpy pitch, but Michi hadn’t enough time to climb the other pitches, that’s why he just checked out the following two 7c pitches.
One day after, Michi came back, totally motivated to send the whole route.
Michi Hofmann has been there as well, he did with his friend Jakob Kunc before Michi a team-redpoint ascent.
Michi climbed after them, the first hard pitch (7a+) is quite pumpy, so Michi took a rest under the 8a pitch. He just shortly checked it out and easily sent it. YES!
But there have been still the two following 7c pitches, also very technical but also endurance climbing.
Michi checked the first 7c shortly out and sent it. He felt very happy and knew just one more hard pitch and then it’s done!
Same procedure, checking it out and sending! He sent it, it felt hard but it worked.
After this, Michi onsighted the following 6c+ and “Geht’s noch Doc?” had it’s first complete redpoint ascent!
The pitches: 5 ; 5 ; 7a+ ; 8a ; 7c ; 7c ; 6c+


The picture of the whole wall (hi res)

photo by © Hansi Heckmair



Topo cesty Geht’s noch Doc?  (hi res)




Topo of the route  Geht’s noch Doc?  (hi res)




But this was not enough, one week later Michi was able to realize another big dream! Freeclimbing the big technoclassic “Via Italia” in Dolomites.
In spring Michi nearly sent it, but fell twice in the big roof of “Via Italia”.
On 11th October Michi leaded the whole route and redpointed every pitch!
This is the second german redpoint ascent and also the youngest of “Via Italia”!
Big thanks to his climbing partner Joachim Feger, who belayed always very good and motivated Michi so good that these dreams became real!

The pitches: 2 ; 6a ; 7b ; 7c+ ; 8a ; 6a ; 7a+



Via Italia, 8a

 



Via Italia, 8a

 




Michi with his friend

 


Michi is supported by

www.wuerth.de
www.ocun.com
www.rockpillars.com
www.mountain-equipment.co.uk
www.julbo-eyewear.com
www.deuter.com






Jirka Sika   [edit] 23:03 03.12.2009Print 

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