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Adam Ondra: 9 pitches on the 1st day in the Dawn Wall push

Adam Ondra did first 9 pitches of the Dawn Wall on El Capitan in Yosemite yesterday after 1st day of the push. It takes him 6 hours. Today he plans to continue from the 10th pitch.

Update:⠀ “We got up at 1:30 a.m. after only a couple hours of sleep, but a few rest days gave a feeling of actually feeling fresh. It was also pretty cold down in Camp 4 so I was hoping for some good night conditions. But the climate on El Cap is crazy. Trying not to be shaken & trying not to get myself out of a good mood, I just ignored it, laced up my shoes & started climbing.⠀ ⠀ “Pitch 1 (5.12b) is a slick slab, & I was curious about how it would feel in the dark. Fortunately it went all right. Pitch 2 (5.13a) & pitch 3 (5.13c) are both quite insecure & somewhat bold (or I cannot just place pro), but darkness might have helped me to have less fear & I did them easier than expected. Pitches 4, 5 & 6 (5.12b, 5.12d & 5.13c) went all right & soon I was under the main problem of the day—pitch 7. Even though it is all on fixed gear, it's protected only by beaks & copperheads. Not the most reliable protection, but I kept my head cool…until my foot slipped and I fell. The protection held & I lowered myself down, pulled down the rope & headed back up there. This time my foot did not slip, but I really wanted to make sure I wouldn't fall, so I was pushing with my feet onto the sidewall of the layback as hard as I could. It paid off & soon I was at the anchor.⠀ ⠀ “I almost thought the goal of the day was done—only two more pitches to go (5.13d & 5.13c). Not that I underestimated the following pitch, which is ultra sharp & ultra bouldery. I just placed my foot imprecisely and off I went into the air. I ruined my skin a bit, which started sweating a lot. I went for another try, still confident. I did the crux move, but my left hand was so sweaty that I was unable to move. For the third go, racing against the sun coming down the wall, I could not rest but gave it a try anyway. I was nervous!⠀ ⠀ “Luckily, one minute before the sun would hit me on the wall when I was at the crux, a little breeze picked up which helped to dry up the skin a little bit & I sent the pitch. I was on cloud nine & quickly finished the next pitch too.⠀ ⠀ “Hopefully it will cool down a little bit. Pitches 10-13 are on the program (5.14a, 5.13c, 5.14b & 5.13b).”⠀ ⠀ –@Adam.Ondra Photo: Heinz Zak

A photo posted by Black Diamond Equipment (@blackdiamond) on











Adam is pulling up on ropes to the BC on portaledge, in the middel of the wall: "Den je krásný ...," he sings the Czech song (The Day is beautiful):




@adam.ondra @blackdiamond #dawnwall #elcapitan #yosemite #liveclimbrepeat #blackdiamond

A photo posted by Pavel Blažek (@pavelblazek) on



sth   [edit] 12:55 15.11.2016Print 

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