www.CzechClimbing.com

 CZECH CLIMBING  SHOP  FORUMS  ADVERTISING  POLLS  LINKS  GUIDES  MAPS  PHOTOS  VIDEO 

 name

 psw 

 Registration   |   55.439 vistors in November
Find a route

Search

Books
Frankenjura nové průvodce
Průvodce Hřebeny
Novou knížku pro horolezce: Horolezecké povídání

Competitions
zrušeno? SP Chamonix (FRA) (11.07)
SP Briançon (FRA) (21.08)
ČP v boulderingu Teplice nad Metují (28.08)

Ranking
Cesty:
41.Nyéki 10100
42.Zedek 10094
43.Brajer 10075
Bouldry:
41.Kalvas 9178
42.Karlík 9156
43.Kopecký 9153
Hory:
24.Fajkoš 2703
25. 2691
26.Píchal 2663

Results
Rock Empire Český pohár v lezení obtížnost dospělých a mládeže (27.06)
Mistrovství Amerik (24.02)
O dřevěného Krakonoše 2020 (25.01)

Diary
4982 lezců
845162 cest
Nové přelezy:
Ringbandsc 9+/10-
Basecamp 8A/8A+
Baserunner 8A
Baserunner 8A
Lutscher 9
Fortuna 7C
Lamač Dívč 8A+
Sukničkář 8A
Zlomené Sr 8A+/8B
Výbuch V H 8A+

Indoors
Lezecké centrum Lanovka - České Budějovice
Boulder Hluchák - Šumperk
Lezecká stěna Salesko - Brno-Líšeň

Shops
Keen Concept Store - Palác Flóra - Praha 3
KIWI - svět map a průvodců - Praha 1
Rock Point Ostrava Avion - Ostrava jih

Contact
REDAKCE:
standalezec.cz
ŠÉFREDAKTOR:
jirkaslezec.cz
INZERCE:
standalezec.cz
IT:
hoplezec.cz

France is not only Buoux

Adam Ondra and comp.

There is a small riddle in the beginning of article- how difficult is the route on the picture?

There is no win prize but still you have to acknowledge that the shot is exceptional.


What is the difficulty of this route?


We set out again for southern France to get some sun during spring holiday Team members: Adam Ondra, Martin Stráník, Tereza and Anna Čermak plus service team.


In St. Leger 


We visited several outcrops round Nice, which are likely to be the closest France outcrops from Brno about 1200 kilometers. I’d like to emphasis that for those, who wants to explore a new climbing areas there is a brand new area in Italy - Castelbianco, and another one immediately behind borders - Castillon. These areas have mainly harder routes, though you can find also some easier stuff but only for one day.
A romantic venue you can discover in the vicinity of Monaco, actually cliff are situated just above the famous Monaco. La Turbie. Some routes are little bit polished but a breathing view is worth. Again for those who wants to climb in less crowded places there is a less known area Peillon.
There is a big contrast between the crowded coast and a wild nature just 10km away.
Access is about 20 - 45 minutes, and if you decide to see also the cave Grotti the access could be ratther tougher.
The area Gorge du Loup, situated in narrow valley, is excellent for warmer days. There are some interesting spots like Jurassik Park at the east side or at the west side desperately overhanging sector Pupuce surplomb. Namely sport climbers can appreciate climbing here all year round. 
Weaker climbers shouldn’t be sad because nearby Gourdon outcrops have plenty of easy routes to offer.

Try to plan your access to Gourdon and Jurassik (to the Jurassik drive from Gourdon and after some 180 deg. hairpins leave your car along the street and follow obvious path turning to the right downhill till the bottom parking spot, at this moment is accessible just for 4WD, from here follow the marking route and go trough several tunnels to the wall) from the north because there is a land-slide close the Pupuce surplomb.

Than we went more to the north and visited  Chateauvert and Buoux.
We finally ended in St. Leger, where are a lot of our friends (Czechs and Slovak climbers)
Final sum up:  for 11 climbing days we have traveled  3000 km
Adam Ondra did: 20 routes above 8a : 7PM JP Chaud 8c, PP, Gorges de Loup
                                    Bout du souffe  8b, OS, Peilon
                                    Das boot 8b, flash, Peillon
                                    Abregenief  8b, PP, St. Leger
Let me note that  Chouca 8a+, OS, Buoux was probably the first on sight ever, remaining routes were climbed also mainly in on sight style or flash (some8a+ and 8a
Martin Stráník did 19 routes above 8a: 3 routes of 8b, styl PP : Abregenief - St. Leger, Das Boot - Peillon, New power generation - Gorges du Loup
the rest 8a+, 8a mainly  OS or flash
For detail check the  www.8a.nu website.
Anna and Tereza Čermák climbed plenty of 7a, 7b’s. Again mainly OS or flash.
Sponsors www.singingrock.cz , www.saltic.cz , www.sunsport.cz

Some photos 

Mortal Combat 8b, Castillon



Monaco



Grotta in Peillon



Das Boot 8b, flash,Peillon



Martin Stranik in action



Jurassik Park



7PM JP Chaud 8c, PP, Pupuce Surplomb



Chouca 8a+, OS, Buoux – probably the first On sight accent of that route




Terka v St. Legere



Anna Cermak St. Legere


And finally solution of the riddle: Route on the picture is  Diplodocus 6c in Jurassic Park.

Lezec.cz   [edit] 12:09 13.04.2005Print 

Reklama:


Related stories:

Commentaries

     
...new commentsNew comment 

Lezec.cz je hlavním mediálním partnerem ČHS na internetu
 Photo of the day:

Mini mužík
 Routes:
All routes (145407)
Top routes in CR
Top boulders in CR
Latest routes
Skorpionissimo 7+ Frankenjura
? 10- Frankenjura
Večný Dážď 8- Dreveník
Oheň V Oblakoch 8 Dreveník
Zajtra To Dám 8 Dreveník
Latest comments:
Back On Stage 9/9+ Frankenjura
Mechyně 7+ Bechyně
Král Harald 8 Bechyně
Vřískot Jara 6+/7- Drátník

 New in discussion:
NVvWRKaHZoQ | Big Bang Kong 48mm Hublot Ure - Udsigt Stort udvalg af Hublot Bi | Re: Rental for crashpad?! | Clearance Moncler Down Women Coats Hooded Long Brown [MC-0006] - | Christmas Day UGG Sundance II 5325 Boots For Women Outlet | Moncler Vests Mens : Moncler Outlet, Cheap Moncler Jackets, Monc | Mr | Climbing partner, Praha saturday | Re: Climbing Partner | Climbing Partner |

 Latest comments:
cartier - fässern we400331 uhr uhr - €178.99 : Replik | Cartier Anel : Cartier Replica , Replica Cartier JĂłias , Falso | cartier love ringe | GĂĽnstige Mont Blanc Kugelschreiber AAA 0131 Schwarz mit Gold au | cartier love ringe | Christmas Day UGG Sundance II 5325 Stövlar för kvinnor Outlet | Officiell Jimmy Choo Gretchen Krossad Metalliska sandaler [a7df] | Replica Baume & Mercier -australia migliori qualitĂ  replica | Borse Prada viaggio | John |

 Hot:
Arco Rock Masters 2015: Adam Ondra won Duel (6)

 New in advertising:
Climbing Partner | Looking for a climbing partner | route setters |


 Instructions:
Climbing map

 ...

 czech climbing  forums  ankety  links  guides  fotky  video  *rss*  private policy       ceník reklamy Energy Cloud   NetPro systems, s.r.o.