www.CzechClimbing.com

 CZECH CLIMBING  SHOP  FORUMS  ADVERTISING  POLLS  LINKS  GUIDES  MAPS  PHOTOS  VIDEO 

 name

 psw 

 Registration   |   55.439 vistors in November
Find a route

Search

Books
Novou knížku pro horolezce: Horolezecké povídání
Adam Ondra vydává další knihu
Hory byly jejich osudem

Competitions
SP v ledolezení Švýcarsko (23.01)
O dřevěného Krakonoše 2020 (25.01)
JIHOČESKÝ BOULDERINGOVÝ POHÁR PÍSEK 2020 (25.01)

Ranking
Cesty:
3.Jungling 11622
4.Trojan 11575
5.Votoček 11372
Bouldry:
3.Jungling 10878
4.Skála 10825
5.Novák 10775
Hory:
24.Malásek 2419
25.Jansa 2401
26.Michovský 2338

Results
Kvalifikace na olympiádu (28.11)
SP v boulderingu Wujiang (CHN) (04.05)
SP v boulderingu Chongqing (CHN) (27.04)

Diary
4773 lezců
792865 cest
Nové přelezy:
Cap I Cua 7c
Un Día Lla 7c
Rock Punk 7b+
Punk Monke 7C/7C+
Tančící Ží 7C
Gofio Aska 7b+
The Kessel 8a
I 2 Stordi 7b+
Soundgarde 7c
Schattenli 8a

Indoors
Lezecké centrum SmíchOFF - Praha 5
Boulder bar Točna - Jihlava
Big Wall - Praha 9 - Vysočany

Shops
Lezec-shop.cz - Štěchovice
LANEX eshop - Bolatice
Outdoor Centrum Rock Point Poříčí - Praha 1

Contact
REDAKCE:
standalezec.cz
ŠÉFREDAKTOR:
jirkaslezec.cz
INZERCE:
standalezec.cz
IT:
hoplezec.cz

Interview with Adam Ondra

Open Air, 9a+

obr_smallHere is a short interview with Adam Ondra concerning his latest send of the route Open Air, 9a+.

When you did Weisse Rose, rumors said that you were trying also Open Air. Its that true?
I tried this route for the first time this summer. And I couldn´t figure out the moves.
I was attracted by a relatively good undercling for which you have absolutely no foot holds and didn´t see some microscopic side pulls to the right. In late summer Alex advised me how to do it and immediately after sending Weisse Rose I made an inspection and was able to do all the moves. Then I put it away for a while. Time came when we had a holiday and a three day weekend. It means five days and nine tries.


obr01

Adam Ondra sending Open Air, 9a+

photo by © Vojtech Vrzba



Hardly anyone can imagine the moves to a 9a+. Could you break down the route in terms of bouldering grades and say something about the route?
The route is quite bouldery. First 25 meters is maybe 8a+ [french], than you can sit on a ledge. From here you continue for 15m long roof- also about 8a+ fr- to the first good hold. Above it there is a boulder passage (about 7B?) and you got the second good jug. Basically, the route starts here– a boulder problem about 8A+. Up to here it´s relatively easy climbing; you are not quite pumped but also not fresh. It doesn´t matter if the roof is 7b or 8a+, the important thing is that you have to climb 20m  hanging on your hands.
Above the crux you are rewarded by tasty and easy vertical climbing with nice view of Kitzbühel. All in all: 8a+,8a+,7B,8A+, easy finish.

Do you think that with such a hard route Alex Huber was ahead of his time? Do you know how long he tried it?
Unfortunately I don´t know. I would say that he keep trying for a longer time, because from when he did Weisse Rose it took 2 years to send Open Air.

What is the difference between Alex´s Spanish and Austrian routes?
I think that there is not much difference between them. In general they are stamina routes but Open Air is an exception. The major advantage of Spain is stable weather.

Has anyone tried Open Air in the last 12 years?
Probably it´s the same case as with Weisse Rose. There were some tries but the crux probably remained unclimbed or unsolved. The route is a nice logic line so its highly unlikely that someone didn´t try it. :-) Maybe climbing itself could be little bit of a disappointment because there is this brutal boulder problem. If you compare Weisse Rose and Open Air, OA is less attractive from the climbing point of view.

At 8a.nu you said that so far it´s your hardest route that you have sent. Do you think that it could be less than your maximum if you did it within 9 tries? Do you feel some reserve?
When I was climbing this route I got the feeling that I simply can not climb any harder at that moment, on the other side, when you try it several times, your body accommodates and somehow every muscle remembers how to move, and the route gets easier. So it´s hard to say, I wouldn´t have the steadiness for long hang-dogging, if that´s what sending this route took. I let them ripen. If I would be focused on something I would be able to keep trying for a week but than I would rather abandon the route for couple month and wait to be stronger.

obr02

Schleier Wasserfal, Austria

photo by © Vojtech Vrzba


You said that Weisse Rose could be 9a+. What do you think now after sending Open Air?
I would keep Weisse Rose as a hard 9a, Open Air as a regular 9a+.

Are you satisfied with your sends this year?
Yes, more than that :-)

Thank you very much Adam for a nice interview for Lezec.cz and congratulations one more time!

Author: Simona Ulmonova
Translation: Jiri Sika, Andrew Burgoon

Simona Ulmonova   [edit] 00:17 21.11.2008Print 

Reklama:


Related stories:

Commentaries

     
...new commentsNew comment 

Lezec.cz je hlavním mediálním partnerem ČHS na internetu
 Photo of the day:

Svjeca
 Routes:
All routes (140789)
Top routes in CR
Top boulders in CR
Latest routes
Get Tracked 5+ Sydney
Grandma's Wheelchair Direct 6 Sydney
Fixed Steps 7- Sydney
Caronte 7a+ Los Vados
Hvězdné Nebe 7B+ Labák - Pravý Břeh
Latest comments:
Bricolor 6b+ Todra Gorge
Stomatologická Hrana 8+ Lom V Doubí
Cukrová Spára 8+ Lom V Doubí
Sin Exceso De Peso 7b Arico Abajo
SZ Hrana 3 Dolina Zeleného Plesa

 New in discussion:
Big Bang Kong 48mm Hublot Ure - Udsigt Stort udvalg af Hublot Bi | Re: Rental for crashpad?! | Clearance Moncler Down Women Coats Hooded Long Brown [MC-0006] - | Christmas Day UGG Sundance II 5325 Boots For Women Outlet | Moncler Vests Mens : Moncler Outlet, Cheap Moncler Jackets, Monc | Mr | Climbing partner, Praha saturday | Re: Climbing Partner | Climbing Partner | Topoapp |

 Latest comments:
Moncler S Mayuko Kvinder Frakke Hot Sælg Rød [moncler2014638] | Links of Rings chave Londres, Reino Unido barato Links da AnĂ©is | cartier - fässern we400331 uhr uhr - €178.99 : Replik | Cartier Anel : Cartier Replica , Replica Cartier JĂłias , Falso | cartier love ringe | GĂĽnstige Mont Blanc Kugelschreiber AAA 0131 Schwarz mit Gold au | cartier love ringe | Christmas Day UGG Sundance II 5325 Stövlar för kvinnor Outlet | MBT brillant Noir Vert inusable Souliers simples de femme - & | Officiell Jimmy Choo Gretchen Krossad Metalliska sandaler [a7df] |

 Hot:
New York Times video: Czech Towers Jumping (1)

 New in advertising:
Climbing Partner | Looking for a climbing partner | route setters |


 Instructions:
Climbing map

 ...

 czech climbing  forums  ankety  links  guides  fotky  video  *rss*  private policy       ceník reklamy Energy Cloud   NetPro systems, s.r.o.