Czech Climbing

 CZECH CLIMBING  SHOP  FORUMS  ADVERTISING  POLLS  LINKS  GUIDES  MAPS  PHOTOS  VIDEO 

 name

 psw 

 Registration   |   55.439 vistors in November
Find a route

Search

Books
Ostaš Bouldertopo 2026: nové vydání + spuštěný předprodej
Slovenské průvodce
Vyšla nejnovější kniha Reinholda Messnera Symboly

Competitions
ČP v lezení na obtížnost Brno (25.04)
SP boulder Keqiao (CHN) (01.05)
Melloblocco 2026 (06.05)

Ranking
Cesty:
1.Šindel 12903
2.Votoček 12850
3.Štípek 11869
Bouldry:
1.Ondra 11434
2.Volf 11328
3.Trojan 11225
Hory:
1.Sejbal 8201
2.Groš 7240
3.Skopec 6983

Results
MČR v ledolezení na obtížnost (07.03)
MČR v lezení na obtížnost (07.03)
EP v ledolezení Finsko (07.03)

Diary
5869 lezců
1205870 cest
Nové přelezy:
Lístek Na 8B
Lístek Na 8B
UÁÁÁ 7C
Temüdžin 7C
Kancho 8B
Piknik U C 8A+
Ambra 8B
Out Of Thi 8A+
Devět Svět 8B+
Klepeto 7C

Indoors
Lezecká stěna Třináctka - Praha - Stodůlky
Stěna GJW Prostějov - Prostějov
Gymnázium Česká Třebová - Česká Třebová

Shops
ALPI SPORT CENTRUM - Příbor
Mapis - mapové informační středisko - Praha 5
HUDYsport - Plzeň

Contact
REDAKCE:
standalezec.cz
ŠÉFREDAKTOR:
jirkaslezec.cz
INZERCE:
standalezec.cz
IT:
hoplezec.cz

Adam Ondra: 9 pitches on the 1st day in the Dawn Wall push

Adam Ondra did first 9 pitches of the Dawn Wall on El Capitan in Yosemite yesterday after 1st day of the push. It takes him 6 hours. Today he plans to continue from the 10th pitch.

Update:⠀ “We got up at 1:30 a.m. after only a couple hours of sleep, but a few rest days gave a feeling of actually feeling fresh. It was also pretty cold down in Camp 4 so I was hoping for some good night conditions. But the climate on El Cap is crazy. Trying not to be shaken & trying not to get myself out of a good mood, I just ignored it, laced up my shoes & started climbing.⠀ ⠀ “Pitch 1 (5.12b) is a slick slab, & I was curious about how it would feel in the dark. Fortunately it went all right. Pitch 2 (5.13a) & pitch 3 (5.13c) are both quite insecure & somewhat bold (or I cannot just place pro), but darkness might have helped me to have less fear & I did them easier than expected. Pitches 4, 5 & 6 (5.12b, 5.12d & 5.13c) went all right & soon I was under the main problem of the day—pitch 7. Even though it is all on fixed gear, it's protected only by beaks & copperheads. Not the most reliable protection, but I kept my head cool…until my foot slipped and I fell. The protection held & I lowered myself down, pulled down the rope & headed back up there. This time my foot did not slip, but I really wanted to make sure I wouldn't fall, so I was pushing with my feet onto the sidewall of the layback as hard as I could. It paid off & soon I was at the anchor.⠀ ⠀ “I almost thought the goal of the day was done—only two more pitches to go (5.13d & 5.13c). Not that I underestimated the following pitch, which is ultra sharp & ultra bouldery. I just placed my foot imprecisely and off I went into the air. I ruined my skin a bit, which started sweating a lot. I went for another try, still confident. I did the crux move, but my left hand was so sweaty that I was unable to move. For the third go, racing against the sun coming down the wall, I could not rest but gave it a try anyway. I was nervous!⠀ ⠀ “Luckily, one minute before the sun would hit me on the wall when I was at the crux, a little breeze picked up which helped to dry up the skin a little bit & I sent the pitch. I was on cloud nine & quickly finished the next pitch too.⠀ ⠀ “Hopefully it will cool down a little bit. Pitches 10-13 are on the program (5.14a, 5.13c, 5.14b & 5.13b).”⠀ ⠀ –@Adam.Ondra Photo: Heinz Zak

A photo posted by Black Diamond Equipment (@blackdiamond) on











Adam is pulling up on ropes to the BC on portaledge, in the middel of the wall: "Den je krásný ...," he sings the Czech song (The Day is beautiful):




@adam.ondra @blackdiamond #dawnwall #elcapitan #yosemite #liveclimbrepeat #blackdiamond

A photo posted by Pavel Blažek (@pavelblazek) on



sth   [edit] 12:55 15.11.2016Print 

Reklama:


Related stories:

Commentaries

     
...new commentsNew comment 

 Photo of the day:
Stará cesta III, Běch u Housky
Stará cesta III
 Routes:
All routes (189999)
Top routes in CR
Top boulders in CR
Latest routes
Super...bear 7A+ Lubná
Mumufuk Soft 7A+ Sochorská Skála
Bon Aqua 6A Tisá - Modřín
Sierra Morena 7a Córdoba
Lince 6b+ Córdoba
Latest comments:
Velká Pardubická 9 Lom Kobyla
Lus Prima Noctis 7 Nasenwand
Figa Flor 6a+ Margalef
Bitx 7a Margalef
Projekt 1 VIIc Doksy U Kladna

 New in discussion:
Morocco Family Tours | Please help me complete my university bouldering project! | Will you go from CZECH REPUBLIC to LONDON, UK? | Re: Rental for crashpad?! | Clearance Moncler Down Women Coats Hooded Long Brown [MC-0006] - | Christmas Day UGG Sundance II 5325 Boots For Women Outlet | Moncler Vests Mens : Moncler Outlet, Cheap Moncler Jackets, Monc | Mr | Climbing partner, Praha saturday | Re: Climbing Partner |

 Latest comments:
Re: Mr.hi | Re: Mr. | Re: Mr. | Re: Mr.hi | Aktuelle Situation | Adrspach | Officiell Jimmy Choo Gretchen Krossad Metalliska sandaler [a7df] | Replica Baume & Mercier -australia migliori qualitĂ  replica | Borse Prada viaggio | John |

 Hot:
Youth European Championship in climbing (4)

 New in advertising:
Climbing Partner | Looking for a climbing partner | route setters |


 Instructions:
Climbing map

 ...

 czech climbing  forums  ankety  links  guides  fotky  video  *rss*  private policy       ceník reklamy Energy Cloud   NetPro systems, s.r.o.