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Category:
 Adam Ondra: 9 pitches on the 1st day in the Dawn Wall push
Adam Ondra did first 9 pitches of the Dawn Wall on El Capitan in Yosemite yesterday after 1st day of the push. It takes him 6 hours. Today he plans to continue from the 10th pitch.
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 Adam Ondra from Dawn Wall: we are going for the push
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 Czech Championship in bouldering 2016
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Czech Adam Ondra has become the World Champion in lead climbing in Paris today, and was the Vice-champion in bouldering yesterday there..
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 Lead and speed World Cup, Arco, ITA
Czech Adam Ondra finished 5th in the finals of the World Cup lead climbing competition in Arco, Italy today. Same as him, another Czech Libor Hroza finished 5th in speed climbing there. The competitions were held during the legendary festival of Rock Master.
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 World Cup in lead climbing 2016, Imst, Austria
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Adam Ondra: 9 pitches on the 1st day in the Dawn Wall push

Adam Ondra did first 9 pitches of the Dawn Wall on El Capitan in Yosemite yesterday after 1st day of the push. It takes him 6 hours. Today he plans to continue from the 10th pitch.

Update:⠀ “We got up at 1:30 a.m. after only a couple hours of sleep, but a few rest days gave a feeling of actually feeling fresh. It was also pretty cold down in Camp 4 so I was hoping for some good night conditions. But the climate on El Cap is crazy. Trying not to be shaken & trying not to get myself out of a good mood, I just ignored it, laced up my shoes & started climbing.⠀ ⠀ “Pitch 1 (5.12b) is a slick slab, & I was curious about how it would feel in the dark. Fortunately it went all right. Pitch 2 (5.13a) & pitch 3 (5.13c) are both quite insecure & somewhat bold (or I cannot just place pro), but darkness might have helped me to have less fear & I did them easier than expected. Pitches 4, 5 & 6 (5.12b, 5.12d & 5.13c) went all right & soon I was under the main problem of the day—pitch 7. Even though it is all on fixed gear, it's protected only by beaks & copperheads. Not the most reliable protection, but I kept my head cool…until my foot slipped and I fell. The protection held & I lowered myself down, pulled down the rope & headed back up there. This time my foot did not slip, but I really wanted to make sure I wouldn't fall, so I was pushing with my feet onto the sidewall of the layback as hard as I could. It paid off & soon I was at the anchor.⠀ ⠀ “I almost thought the goal of the day was done—only two more pitches to go (5.13d & 5.13c). Not that I underestimated the following pitch, which is ultra sharp & ultra bouldery. I just placed my foot imprecisely and off I went into the air. I ruined my skin a bit, which started sweating a lot. I went for another try, still confident. I did the crux move, but my left hand was so sweaty that I was unable to move. For the third go, racing against the sun coming down the wall, I could not rest but gave it a try anyway. I was nervous!⠀ ⠀ “Luckily, one minute before the sun would hit me on the wall when I was at the crux, a little breeze picked up which helped to dry up the skin a little bit & I sent the pitch. I was on cloud nine & quickly finished the next pitch too.⠀ ⠀ “Hopefully it will cool down a little bit. Pitches 10-13 are on the program (5.14a, 5.13c, 5.14b & 5.13b).”⠀ ⠀ –@Adam.Ondra Photo: Heinz Zak

A photo posted by Black Diamond Equipment (@blackdiamond) on











Adam is pulling up on ropes to the BC on portaledge, in the middel of the wall: "Den je krásný ...," he sings the Czech song (The Day is beautiful):




@adam.ondra @blackdiamond #dawnwall #elcapitan #yosemite #liveclimbrepeat #blackdiamond

A photo posted by Pavel Blažek (@pavelblazek) on



sth   [edit] 12:55 15.11.2016Print 

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