Czech Climbing

 CZECH CLIMBING  SHOP  FORUMS  ADVERTISING  POLLS  LINKS  GUIDES  MAPS  PHOTOS  VIDEO 

 name

 psw 

 Registration   |   Look at the tips and advices on the HowTravelCheap.com!
Find a route

Search

Books
Ostaš Bouldertopo 2026: nové vydání + spuštěný předprodej
Slovenské průvodce
Vyšla nejnovější kniha Reinholda Messnera Symboly

Competitions
Petrohradské Padání (24.04)
ČP v lezení na obtížnost Brno (25.04)
SP boulder Keqiao (CHN) (01.05)

Ranking
Cesty:
1.Šindel 12953
2.Votoček 12850
3.Širůčková 11897
Bouldry:
1.Ondra 11434
2.Volf 11328
3.Trojan 11200
Hory:
1.Sejbal 8201
2.Groš 7712
3.Skopec 7183

Results
MČR v ledolezení na obtížnost (07.03)
MČR v lezení na obtížnost (07.03)
EP v ledolezení Finsko (07.03)

Diary
5902 lezců
1214348 cest
Nové přelezy:
Silkroad Xc
Lež A Nená 9+
Tři Čuníci 7C
Il Patrone 7c
Pipeline 7b+
Aceton 7C
Kudla V Zá 8A
Unplugged 11
Dýka 8A
Kraken 7c

Indoors
Boulder Bar - Praha 7
Lezecké centrum SmíchOFF - Praha 5
Big Wall - Praha 9 - Vysočany

Shops
Lezec-shop.cz - Štěchovice
Outdoor Centrum Rock Point Perštýn - Praha 1
LANEX eshop - Bolatice

Contact
REDAKCE:
standalezec.cz
ŠÉFREDAKTOR:
jirkaslezec.cz
INZERCE:
standalezec.cz
IT:
hoplezec.cz

Adam Ondra has sent his hardest route

smallA 35metres long, extremely overhanging route - called Marina Superstar (extension of existing route Marina 8c/c+) was bolted by Matteo Marini, is situated in sector "Bronx" near Domusnovas vilage about 40kms from Cagliari.

Adam tried this project last year already. It starts as a 8b+ pitch in 45 degrees overhang, then it continues over 4 quickdraws to another chain (8c/c+) and after that, without any rests, comes a boulder problem of 7C+ Fr in nearly vertical roof to an edge of the cave. Several hard moves with heelhooks and one good resthold and comes another boulder problem on the edge of the cave - going from horizontal roof to a vertical wall. The difference between last bolt and the chain is approximately 6 metres!
Adam Ondra sent this route on Tuesday evening after 4 days of working on it. During his tries there were broken two tufas in the roof, where he could rest a bit so he had to change the sequence as well and was obliged to use wet tufa and match on it too!

před klíčovým místem

Adam in hardest spot

photo by © Vojtěch Vrzba


That made probably the "slash" in the grade of the route. Adam was thinking about the grade for couple of days to say the final verdict - 9a+/b.
During his stay in Sardinia he managed to make first ascents of another hard routes in sectors Bronx (Death Row 8c+) and in Ruota del Tempo (The Voice 8c+).
In the meantime he had onsinghted seven routes from 8a to 8b.

Pohled na cestu

The Cave

photo by © Vojtěch Vrzba


Further photos at www.climb4fun.cz

JirkaS   [edit] 10:34 27.10.2009Print 

Reklama:


Related stories:

Commentaries

     
...new commentsNew comment 

 Photo of the day:

Padání 2026
 Routes:
All routes (190754)
Top routes in CR
Top boulders in CR
Latest routes
Vormittagsspaziergang 4 Dürnstein
Rübezahl 4 Dürnstein
Rumpelstilzchen 3+ Dürnstein
Severovýchodní Stěna 6- Skály V Údolí Kamenice
Stará Cesta 5 Skály V Údolí Kamenice
Latest comments:
Tři Čuníci II 7C Tisá - Modřín
Bachmač 6+ Jickovice
Česká Cesta 7 Roviště
Česká Cesta 7 Roviště
Česká Cesta 7 Roviště

 New in discussion:
Morocco Family Tours | Please help me complete my university bouldering project! | Will you go from CZECH REPUBLIC to LONDON, UK? | Re: Rental for crashpad?! | Clearance Moncler Down Women Coats Hooded Long Brown [MC-0006] - | Christmas Day UGG Sundance II 5325 Boots For Women Outlet | Moncler Vests Mens : Moncler Outlet, Cheap Moncler Jackets, Monc | Mr | Climbing partner, Praha saturday | Re: Climbing Partner |

 Latest comments:
Contributions from abroad | Re: Mr.hi | Re: Mr. | Re: Mr. | Re: Mr.hi | Aktuelle Situation | Adrspach | Officiell Jimmy Choo Gretchen Krossad Metalliska sandaler [a7df] | Replica Baume & Mercier -australia migliori qualitĂ  replica | Borse Prada viaggio |

 Hot:
Kalymnos (1)

 New in advertising:
Climbing Partner | Looking for a climbing partner | route setters |


 Instructions:
Climbing map

 ...

 czech climbing  forums  ankety  links  guides  fotky  video  *rss*  private policy       ceník reklamy Energy Cloud   NetPro systems, s.r.o.