Czech Climbing

 CZECH CLIMBING  SHOP  FORUMS  ADVERTISING  POLLS  LINKS  GUIDES  MAPS  PHOTOS  VIDEO 

 name

 psw 

 Registration   |   55.439 vistors in November
Find a route

Search

Books
Slovenské průvodce
Vyšla nejnovější kniha Reinholda Messnera Symboly
Průvodce Elbtal 1 a 2

Competitions
ČP v lezení na obtížnost Brno (25.04)
SP boulder Keqiao (CHN) (01.05)
Melloblocco 2026 (06.05)

Ranking
Cesty:
4.Stribrny 11850
5.Širůčková 11747
6.Mokroluský 11624
Bouldry:
4.Novák 11025
5.Pochman 10925
6.Stráník 10700
Hory:
27.Kulajta 2304
28.Rojko 2298
29.Chomová 2248

Results
MČR v ledolezení na obtížnost (07.03)
MČR v lezení na obtížnost (07.03)
EP v ledolezení Finsko (07.03)

Diary
5865 lezců
1204228 cest
Nové přelezy:
Study Brea 7C
Monodito 7c
Il Piatto 8a
Wilibaldov 9+/10-
Ztopořená 9/9+
Těžník 8A
Ornament 8A/8A+
Křik A Plá 8A+/8B
Pigs (thre 8A/8A+
Python 7C

Indoors
Dap Sport - Hradec Králové
Vertigo lezecké centrum - Bratislava
Bouldercafe stěna už neexistuje - Plzeň

Shops
Rock Point OC Olympia - Brno
Outdoor Centrum Rock Point Letňany - Praha 9 - Letňany
Rock Point Hradec Králové - Hradec Králové

Contact
REDAKCE:
standalezec.cz
ŠÉFREDAKTOR:
jirkaslezec.cz
INZERCE:
standalezec.cz
IT:
hoplezec.cz

Adam Ondra has sent his hardest route

smallA 35metres long, extremely overhanging route - called Marina Superstar (extension of existing route Marina 8c/c+) was bolted by Matteo Marini, is situated in sector "Bronx" near Domusnovas vilage about 40kms from Cagliari.

Adam tried this project last year already. It starts as a 8b+ pitch in 45 degrees overhang, then it continues over 4 quickdraws to another chain (8c/c+) and after that, without any rests, comes a boulder problem of 7C+ Fr in nearly vertical roof to an edge of the cave. Several hard moves with heelhooks and one good resthold and comes another boulder problem on the edge of the cave - going from horizontal roof to a vertical wall. The difference between last bolt and the chain is approximately 6 metres!
Adam Ondra sent this route on Tuesday evening after 4 days of working on it. During his tries there were broken two tufas in the roof, where he could rest a bit so he had to change the sequence as well and was obliged to use wet tufa and match on it too!

před klíčovým místem

Adam in hardest spot

photo by © Vojtěch Vrzba


That made probably the "slash" in the grade of the route. Adam was thinking about the grade for couple of days to say the final verdict - 9a+/b.
During his stay in Sardinia he managed to make first ascents of another hard routes in sectors Bronx (Death Row 8c+) and in Ruota del Tempo (The Voice 8c+).
In the meantime he had onsinghted seven routes from 8a to 8b.

Pohled na cestu

The Cave

photo by © Vojtěch Vrzba


Further photos at www.climb4fun.cz

JirkaS   [edit] 10:34 27.10.2009Print 

Reklama:


Related stories:

Commentaries

     
...new commentsNew comment 

 Photo of the day:

 Routes:
All routes (189877)
Top routes in CR
Top boulders in CR
Latest routes
Esparnallac 7a+ Siurana
Python 7C Vesec
Con La Punta De. 6a+ Chulilla
Adios Mi Cadera 6a Chulilla
La Última Gota En. 6a Chulilla
Latest comments:
Study Break 7C Tisá - Modřín
Chaluhová Varianta 6 Srbsko
Highlander 8-/8 Roviště
Highlander 8-/8 Roviště
Stará Novinka 7B Tisá - Modřín

 New in discussion:
Morocco Family Tours | Please help me complete my university bouldering project! | Will you go from CZECH REPUBLIC to LONDON, UK? | Re: Rental for crashpad?! | Clearance Moncler Down Women Coats Hooded Long Brown [MC-0006] - | Christmas Day UGG Sundance II 5325 Boots For Women Outlet | Moncler Vests Mens : Moncler Outlet, Cheap Moncler Jackets, Monc | Mr | Climbing partner, Praha saturday | Re: Climbing Partner |

 Latest comments:
Re: Mr.hi | Re: Mr. | Re: Mr. | Re: Mr.hi | Aktuelle Situation | Adrspach | Officiell Jimmy Choo Gretchen Krossad Metalliska sandaler [a7df] | Replica Baume & Mercier -australia migliori qualitĂ  replica | Borse Prada viaggio | John |

 Hot:
Youth European Championship in climbing (4)

 New in advertising:
Climbing Partner | Looking for a climbing partner | route setters |


 Instructions:
Climbing map

 ...

 czech climbing  forums  ankety  links  guides  fotky  video  *rss*  private policy       ceník reklamy Energy Cloud   NetPro systems, s.r.o.